Soundings - Page 2 of 6 - The Surfers Journal

Darrick Doerner

On the allure of Sunset Beach, Dick Brewer, guts, long swims, facing moments of terror, the drop at Waimea, tow surfing, and drawing lines on…

Scott Hulet

On his early passion for book making, documenting surf culture, Craig Stecyk, the growth of surfing’s literary sensibility, fishing, traveling throughout Latin America, and his…

Ryan Burch

On what excites him about the future of surfboard design, surf stardom, the virtues of working with your hands, traveling, entrepreneurship, and getting comfortable in…

Robert Trujillo

On joining Metallica, falling in love with the bass guitar, his first big break, family, songwriting and composition, and the connection between surfing and music.

Carissa Moore

On staying true to herself, the nuances of expectation, positivity, taking a break from the tour, the realities of pro surfing, athleticism, and her upbringing…

Mark Cunningham

On Pipeline, his first winter as a North Shore lifeguard, bodysurfing mechanics, bravery, wipeouts, waves of consequence, and his heaviest experiences in the line of…

William Finnegan

On Barbarian Days, long-form writing, conflict reporting, traveling, nonfiction narrative, surfing Long Island, and finding an audience.

Shane Dorian

On pursuing his dreams, Todd Chesser and Brock Little, a brush with fate at Himalayas, training, and how to get in position at Jaws.

Jaleesa Vincent

On self-embodiment, taxidermy, her band, dealing with tough crowds, the Rage gang, the surfers and artists who inspire her, airs, and finding liberation in being…

Nate Tyler

On his Central California roots, eschewing competition, filming, pathways to success, shark encounters, family, making art, and creating opportunity.

Jack McCoy

On MacGillivray Freeman Films, learning through trial and error, storytelling, water cinematography, Mark Occhilupo, resisting repetition, and the power of the soundtrack.

Darryl “Flea” Virostko

On growing up in Santa Cruz, his nickname, channeling fear and adrenaline, his worst wipeout, addiction and asking for help, and Maverick’s.