Current Issue

27.4

On the cover: Reno Abellira, Dick Brewer, Gerry Lopez, April 1969, Oahu. “We were fueled up with some good smoke and great company,” says photographer David Darling. “When Reno spotted the Makiki water-pump station, we off-loaded our boards and burned through some yoga poses. Next, we stopped in the woods, climbed some trees, and laid out the boards in the groundcover.” Inside the book, features scan from Indonesian shamans, to Art Brewer’s imagery of the quick and the dead, to the barren surrealism of the South Australian surfscape. More below.

Current Issue

27.4

On the cover: Reno Abellira, Dick Brewer, Gerry Lopez, April 1969, Oahu. “We were fueled up with some good smoke and great company,” says photographer David Darling. “When Reno spotted the Makiki water-pump station, we off-loaded our boards and burned through some yoga poses. Next, we stopped in the woods, climbed some trees, and laid out the boards in the groundcover.” Inside the book, features scan from Indonesian shamans, to Art Brewer’s imagery of the quick and the dead, to the barren surrealism of the South Australian surfscape. More below.

Features
Photo by Al Mackinnon

“I’ve never been a winner. That’s not my thing. When I’m sitting on the inside bowl, and I get a huge set on the head, I expect it to happen. I enjoy that part of it too. I’m used to it not coming easy.”

Page 22

Clare in His Blood

Tom Lowe on the big wave stage.

Photo by Jeremiah Klein

Page 32

Electric Blue Maybes

Risks and rewards on the Westside of Oahu.

Illustration by Armando Veve

Page 40

Fiction: Lucky You Surf

Greer surfed, and occasionally shot craps. He’d never been to Hawaii, but that didn’t mean he wasn’t lucky.

Photo by Art Brewer

Page 48

Offerings

Art Brewer’s altar of rarities.

Photo by Todd Glaser

At one point, after his father’s wake, one of the local groms proposed that a surfer of Dave’s ability could ride anything, even a coffin.

Page 68

Good Trouble

The continuing education of Dave Rastovich.

Photo by Heather Hiller

At midday, Lepon and I walked along a new gash that severed his tiny hamlet, the first road ever to connect the village to the outside world. The mud from the half-constructed motorway had the appearance of a bloody coagulation—oozing, sticky, and warm.

Page 80

The Sikerei of the Islands

Tattoos and reef waves, shamans and cultural collisions in the Mentawai.

Photo by SA RIPS

Page 98

Portfolio: SA Rips

West of Pointerville, through the lens of a South Australian shooter.