Essay - The Surfers Journal

35.2

Lingua Franca

Musings on our strenuous idioms.

Being-in-the-Tube

Reflections on the human condition—from inside the barrel.

34.6

All the Time I Had

Spinning lies and cheating the clock for frigid point surf.

34.5

Bourbon Island

A recollection of somewhat artful, mostly lucky dodging.

34.4

I Won’t Be Long

Recklessness and repercussions at Punta de Lobos and across generations.

34.3

Time on the Glider

The minimalism and effortless euphoria of “big boards.”

34.2

Follow the Line

Mid-face tracks and anthropological theory.

34.1

Beautiful Lives & Beautiful Deaths

Mortal liminality at the crest of a breaking wave.

33.6

Lessons By Thrashing

What’s the difference between defeat and noble capitulation? Occasionally, the ocean will send a signal.

33.5

Religious None

Soul surfing, from the Hawaiian kahunas to Ram Dass.

33.4

Tuna Taper

From Darwin to Boeing, from Edwards to Greenough, we call upon the shaper to explain.

33.3

The Jungle Endures

A modern Grajagan survey.