Essay | Page 2 of 2 | The Surfers Journal

The Surfers Journal

The Surfers Journal

Meditations in a Surf Emergency

“You’d think I was a con. The way I set things up. I said nothing to no one. The things you do for surf.”

Leaving Las Vegas

A United States surf citizen charts his path.

One Hundred Waves in Solitude

Twenty-one days of seclusion along the coast of Eastern Canada.

The Impermanence of All Things

Surf sessions, catastrophic earthquakes, and the difficulty of experiencing time and place in the immediacy of living.

The Legible Element

Mind surfing with lauded Victorian poet Gerard Manley Hopkins, who had some surprising intuitions about the “selves of waves.”

On the Wild Edge in Alaska

“For a while it was scary. Then it was simply my surfing life.”

Long Term Relationship

The benefits of working with a single shaper for life.

Bodies of Water

Self-discovery on the underside of a surf break

Stirring the Hive

Surfing in the era of Social Media

Crowdfunded

Surfing is one of the biggest businesses on Bali and blocking for a client is good business.