Essay - Page 2 of 6 - The Surfers Journal

32.5

Penultimates

Evolution, expiration, the gods, and wave riding as viewed from a tropical seawall.

32.4

In Suspension

We only spend a tiny fraction of our lives actually riding waves. The rest is spent waiting—and obsessing.

32.3

The Houseboat Paradox

Midlengths, masscult, and the universal pull toward surfboard singularity.

32.2

Searching for Koa

A simple side-rip can become an odyssey.

32.1

Sandías y Corridas de Toros

From the bullfights to the Tijuana jail.

31.6

Dancing About Architecture

The fraught practice and checkered history of writing about the physical act of riding waves.

31.5

The Duke and the Craft

The curious case of Hawaiian Freemasonry.

Solid Waste

Seeking surf enlightenment? Follow the gut.

31.3

If a Wave Breaks in the Woods

Was it really better yesterday if no one was there to surf it?

31.2

Sometimes I Wonder How I Keep From Going Under

Coming to grips with the new Malibu surfer.

31.1

Young Blood

Youth is short, surfing is long. Finesse is required.

30.6

In Red Texas Dusk

A single wave reverbs across the landscape of time and space.