The Surfers Journal
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A United States surf citizen charts his path.
Twenty-one days of seclusion along the coast of Eastern Canada.
Surf sessions, catastrophic earthquakes, and the difficulty of experiencing time and place in the immediacy of living.
Mind surfing with lauded Victorian poet Gerard Manley Hopkins, who had some surprising intuitions about the “selves of waves.”
“For a while it was scary. Then it was simply my surfing life.”
The benefits of working with a single shaper for life.
Self-discovery on the underside of a surf break
Surfing in the era of Social Media
Surfing is one of the biggest businesses on Bali and blocking for a client is good business.
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