Editorial - The Surfers Journal

34.1

Hard and Fast all the Time

Ross Clark-Jones on mental health, reality TV gone wrong, competing in the Eddie, and Mad Wax.

Tom Carroll

On the Snap, the North Shore, competing in the face of tragedy, helmets, going for broke, athleticism, his favorite surfers to watch, and his road…

34.1

Beautiful Lives & Beautiful Deaths

Mortal liminality at the crest of a breaking wave.

Ed Templeton

On the poetics of the street, photography, skating’s DIY spirit, alienation, suburbia, making art, owning a company, and resourcefulness.

Leah Dawson

On moving to Hawaii, languages of connection, style, cinematography, Pipeline, single-fins, simple surfing, and attaining longevity as a surfer.

The End of The Endless Summer

An excerpt from Mike Hynson’s autobiography Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel.

Matt Warshaw

On finding his way to surfing, his friendship with Jay Adams, his first Jeff Ho board, cultivating ambition, writing, Ocean Beach, attending Cal Berkeley, and…

A Moment of Reflection 2024

A tribute to the wave riders we lost this year.

Torren Martyn

On his year spent sailing, growing up in Byron Bay, his quiver, crocodiles, Indo, his surf idols, self-sufficiency, and sketchy situations at sea.

Carolyn Murphy

On her double life as a supermodel and surfer, the fashion industry, the shock of moving to NYC, deviance, acting, motherhood, and the futility of…

19.3

The Rosy Resurrection

Shedding Peter Drouyn and becoming Westerly Windina.

Darrick Doerner

On the allure of Sunset Beach, Dick Brewer, guts, long swims, facing moments of terror, the drop at Waimea, tow surfing, and drawing lines on…