Soundings - Page 3 of 6 - The Surfers Journal

Steve Olson

On surf devotion, sidewalk intimacy, knee paddling, off-the-lip skating, checkerboard patterns, the theatrics of style, punk music, Dogtown, and fatherhood.

Coco Ho

On surfing against her brother in a heat, the world tour, her twin-fin fascination, creativity, her surfboard label, and getting waves at Backdoor.

Nat Young

On Byron Bay, “Magic Sam” and the shortboard revolution, surfing’s commercialization, crowds, and paying homage to surf history.

John John Florence

On measuring success, photography, letting go, confidence, approaching challenges with a positive mindset, the balance between performance and playfulness, and his mother’s influence.

Keala Kennelly

On the wave that made her, fighting for female representation, the Irons brothers, being invited to the Eddie, the dichotomy between freedom and conservatism, and…

Brad Gerlach

On wanting to be somebody, lessons learned from his father, pouring himself into his pursuits, his be-the-best mentality, the power of visualization, and Wave Ki.

Thomas Campbell

On filmmaking, skating, persisting through failure, transparency as an artist, what draws him to his subjects, anti-consumerism, self-expression, and finding freedom in detachment.

Jock Sutherland

On riding switch, finding his way to Pipeline, the recipe for a perfect trip, Waimea’s mechanics, clean living, the virtue of humility, and enlisting in…

Michael Scott Moore

On being held hostage by Somali pirates, the power of optimism, his first phone call, sanity and remembrance, anger, and forgiveness.

Takuji Masuda

On nose-riding at Pipeline, mentors, curation and Super X Media, Bunker Spreckels, and facilitating connections between tradition and youth culture in Japan.

Chris Malloy

On filmmaking, name calling, assimilating to the North Shore, the Momentum Generation, surfing in Chile with Miki Dora, imposter syndrome, and searching for waves in…

Ashley Bickerton

On his art career, resisting the Gauguin fantasy, despoiled paradise, his manifesto, misanthropy, his ALS diagnosis, and finding beauty in the everyday.