Shirley Rogers
On the North Shore, surfing’s commercialization, and tiger tracks in Indo.
On the North Shore, surfing’s commercialization, and tiger tracks in Indo.
On Pipeline, getting creative in the lineup, and growing up on the North Shore.
On the fundamentals of breathwork, writing books, and Ocean Beach.
On tube riding, the virtues of simplicity, and dealing with loss.
On airs, the value of making art, and flying his freak flag.
On Echo Beach, surfing Wedge, and the surf industry’s heyday.
On photographing big-wave lineups, storytelling, and facing mortality.
On the history of the Triple Crown, surf purism, and riding waves in over 70 countries.
On riding big waves, overcoming injuries, and racing sports cars.
On winning a world title, overcoming adversity, and life after pro surfing.
On traveling, surfing in the cold, chasing adventure, and the state of modern surf photography.