A core member of the Momentum Generation and an 11-year veteran of the world tour, Shane Dorian is best known for his big-wave accomplishments over the past 20 years. Born and raised on the Big Island of Hawaii, Dorian received his big-wave education under Brock Little, Todd Chesser, and others after relocating to the North Shore as a teenager. Today, with multiple XXL Awards under his belt and a bag full of some of the most defining rides in history, Dorian has proven a trailblazer in the big-wave realm, helping to consistently redefine what’s possible via one’s own paddle power. In this episode, Dorian talks with show host Jamie Brisick about swell tracking, risk assessment, the surfing time warp, decision making in critical moments, family, bowhunting, overcoming self-doubt, and the virtue of patience.
Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.
Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).
Feature image by Todd Glaser.