listen Archives - Page 3 of 6 - The Surfers Journal

Matt Warshaw

On finding his way to surfing, his friendship with Jay Adams, his first Jeff Ho board, cultivating ambition, writing, Ocean Beach, attending Cal Berkeley, and…

Torren Martyn

On his year spent sailing, growing up in Byron Bay, his quiver, crocodiles, Indo, his surf idols, self-sufficiency, and sketchy situations at sea.

Carolyn Murphy

On her double life as a supermodel and surfer, the fashion industry, the shock of moving to NYC, deviance, acting, motherhood, and the futility of…

Darrick Doerner

On the allure of Sunset Beach, Dick Brewer, guts, long swims, facing moments of terror, the drop at Waimea, tow surfing, and drawing lines on…

Scott Hulet

On his early passion for book making, documenting surf culture, Craig Stecyk, the growth of surfing’s literary sensibility, fishing, traveling throughout Latin America, and his…

Ryan Burch

On what excites him about the future of surfboard design, surf stardom, the virtues of working with your hands, traveling, entrepreneurship, and getting comfortable in…

Robert Trujillo

On joining Metallica, falling in love with the bass guitar, his first big break, family, songwriting and composition, and the connection between surfing and music.

Carissa Moore

On staying true to herself, the nuances of expectation, positivity, taking a break from the tour, the realities of pro surfing, athleticism, and her upbringing…

Mark Cunningham

On Pipeline, his first winter as a North Shore lifeguard, bodysurfing mechanics, bravery, wipeouts, waves of consequence, and his heaviest experiences in the line of…

William Finnegan

On Barbarian Days, long-form writing, conflict reporting, traveling, nonfiction narrative, surfing Long Island, and finding an audience.

Shane Dorian

On pursuing his dreams, Todd Chesser and Brock Little, a brush with fate at Himalayas, training, and how to get in position at Jaws.

Jaleesa Vincent

On self-embodiment, taxidermy, her band, dealing with tough crowds, the Rage gang, the surfers and artists who inspire her, airs, and finding liberation in being…