30.1

For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself.

The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the always worth-reading Bryan Di Salvatore. Chart-plot pointbreaks in West Africa, rain-dodge in the Pacific Northwest, and take stock of Portugal’s ascension as a major surf destination. The high-action water photography of Laserwolf and the intimate illustrations of artist AJ Dungo present disparate but equally personal representations of the life.

Features
Photograph by Seth de Roulet

Page 22

A Single Ride Away

Nic von Rupp finds his big-wave footing.

Illustration by Sally Deng

What broke open exposed an emptiness of little direction and no sense of purpose. But one thing was clear: I liked being in the ocean. Something clicked. Each day, the water made me feel better.

Page 12

Essay: The Streak

After a year of riding waves every day, one surfer decided to keep going.

Photograph by Dick Graham

No doubt entire industries in fashion, film, and music have sprung from the California myth of feckless surfer boys and bikini-clad go-go girls. Yet it also may be that the Beach Party films mark, in a most unpretentious way, the vernacular language of a subculture at the very cusp of its breakout moment.

Page 34

Sweet Pleasures by the Bonfire

The lost world of the Beach Party films.

Illustration by Elzo Durt

Page 16

Playing in the Sunshine

An interview with Robert “Wingnut” Weaver.

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Frame grab by Igor Bellindo

Page 42

This Delicacy Before Us

Two surfers visit a remote village in Senegal for unique indulgences.

Photograph by Leo Hetzel

I’ll save the other stuff for another day. I’m having way too much fun just going out and riding a few waves that other people aren’t getting.

Page 50

Dropping in with Mickey Muñoz

At home with The Mongoose.

Illustration by AJ Dungo

Interwoven with the story of Dungo and Kristen is the trajectory of Duke Kahanamoku and Tom Blake, which is its own sort of love story, and which works as a ballast as things get heavy for Kristen. It’s as if Dungo’s mining the myths that will hold him together once he’s left alone.

Page 60

Lines of Connection

Accomplished illustrator AJ Dungo fuses the personal with tradition. Resonant results ensue.

Photograph by Kevin Roche

Page 68

Soundings

Sanders, the power forwards of surfboard production, use grit to find the grain.

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Photograph by Nick Green

Page 78

Two Hands Clapping

Dion Agius and Craig Anderson bring noise to the Australian countryside.

Photograph by Mark McInnis

I almost died in the middle of the night. We were all woken up by a massive tree branch that fell and nearly leveled my tent. Greg and I immediately moved the tent and, in the process, my hatchet cut a 5-inch hole in its bottom. So much for a dry home for the next few days.

Page 86

Rain Dogs

What rewards come from butting one’s head against the Pacific Northwest? Hank Gaskell, Greg Urata, and a dog named Moku hike into the woods to find out.

Art by Evan Hecox

The waves would be all Jim’s again, but he had become if not indifferent, then used to them. The thrill wasn’t gone, but it no longer thrilled as much. We knew, at least guessed, he wasn’t long for the place. Sometimes even the fruit of paradise becomes overripe.

Page 92

The Warmest Sands of Wishing

In 1977, two travelers found a surfing Eden. Then reality set in.

Photograph by Laserwolf

Page 102

Portfolio: Laserwolf

How Floridian Brandon Campbell, also known as Laserwolf, was reborn and named anew on the North Shore of Oahu.

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Photograph by Andrew Shield

Page 118

Undercurrents

Our department’s section begins an all-too-rare left on the Gold Coast of Queensland. Lovers Rock at Duranbah traces its provenance to the mid-20th century, when honeymooners painted their names at this overlook. A mere 150 yards south of Snapper Rocks, this seasonal sandbank offers screwfoots the chance to pet the cat’s fur backward.

Photograph by Al Mackinnon

I try to imagine what is beneath me. Fish, big and small, that spend their days smeared in the mirk of the North Sea. Drifting blindly, occasionally bumping into other fish doing the same. I wonder how much of our own lives are spent blindly bumping into each other in the dark?

Page 120

Foreign Affairs: La Nostalgie de la Boue

Finding unexpected common ground in the North Sea.

Photograph by Tony Heff

Page 121

Field Report: Farming for Fuel

Inside Monyca and Ola Eleogram’s organic fruit farm on Maui.

Photograph by Artur Pastor

Page 122

Miscellany

Twelve points of interest—reviews, talk story, and historical artifacts—served up at an easily digestible size, including shaper Lance Collins’ Jet Board, a hardbound book of illustrations featuring post-humans surfing the cosmos, and a look at the Portugese fishermen who have hunted dinner out at Nazaré for generations.

Photograph by Craig Peterson

In recent years, I’ve noticed that everyone pretty much does it in the same pattern, using the same logic to solve the problem. The sameness weighs on me. While observing a lineup of, say, 40-plus surfers, it is very rare that anything new strikes me.

Page 124

Surfing Around: Vantage Point

Observations on a modern lineup and its players.