The Surfers Journal
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On mortal fear, sexual identity, and near-death epiphanies.
A brief chat with the late paterfamilias of surf media.
State Senator. Contest Organizer. Surf Legend.
Discussing rail surfing, raw power, and the beauty of unpolished style.
Thirty-eight seasons in Indo with the surfer, skipper, and explorer.
Talking the vastness of the universe, some early research at Teahupoo, and the "Exceptionally Simple Theory of Everything" with the physicist/surfer.
A retrospective conversation.
Dissecting Thai stick smuggling, military contracts, and the subjectivity of surf history with the author and historian
On Pipeline, the Shortboard Revolution, and the art of the clean exit
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