The Surfer’s Journal presents
With Jamie Brisick
In-depth conversations with the most compelling people in surfing.
Photo by Will Adler
The seven-time world champ on maintaining competitive focus, making the jump from high-school straight to the world tour, Snapper Rocks etiquette, and the virtues of smiling while dropping in.
The award-winning author on surfing and addiction, the acceptance of substance use in the arts, the double-edged nature of the surfing life, and the benefits of meditation.
The electric freesurfer on staying relevant in the changing media landscape, the benefits of irony and self-deprecation, his decision to leave the world tour, and being recognized in public.
The big-wave charger on the possibility of a big-wave gene, the joys of the single-fin gun, sexism in the lineup, and what it’s like to sit on the boil at Waimea as a set swings wide.
The surfer-shaper-writer-critic on outrigger canoes, his relationship with the surf world, surfing “then” versus “now,” how to keep riding waves interesting in mid-life and beyond.
The definitive waterman on his adrenaline-junkie beginnings, early heroes and influences, selfdoubt and managing fear, and the backstory of his Millennium Wave.
Photo by Tom Servais
About the host
Jamie Brisick surfed on the ASP world tour from 1986 to 1991, and has since documented surf culture extensively. His books include Becoming Westerly: Surf Champion Peter Drouyn’s Transformation into Westerly Windina, We Approach Our Martinis With Such High Expectations, Have Board, Will Travel: The Definitive History of Surf, Skate, and Snow, and The Eighties at Echo Beach. His writings and photographs have appeared in The New Yorker, The New York Times, The Guardian, and W., and has contributed to The Surfer’s Journal since its first volume. In 2008 he was awarded a Fulbright Fellowship. He lives in Los Angeles.