The name Laird Hamilton conjures many images: the Millennium Wave, SUPing at Jaws, soaring along some remote outer reef swell on a foil, trotting across the sea floor lugging a heavy rock. Along with his many seafaring and wave-riding innovations, he’s a fitness guru and trainer. And we mustn’t forget Laird Superfoods (I added his turmeric to my coffee just this morning).
As expected, Laird and I went all over the place: adrenaline-junkie beginnings, early heroes and influences, foregoing the contest route to carve out his own career path. We talked self-doubt and managing fear. He shared a touching backstory to his Millennium Wave. Then we got into the more present-day stuff: aging and longevity, morning routine, foiling, and what he’s most proud of. —Jamie Brisick.
Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.
Music by Little Wings.
Photograph by Tom Servais.