On the cover: Kainehe Hunt finds room to stretch amid the backwash chaos on an otherwise picture-postcard afternoon in Hawaii.

The issue’s inner workings offer a far-and-wide trip in era, avenue, and geography: Smugglers laying down the original tracks at a famed Indonesian reef pass. The Southern California showdown between a sitting US President and a surf culture-maker. A written portrait of one of the world tour’s all-time leading proponents of surf progression. Modern exploration in a harsh, boom-or-bust European sea. High-action photography from one of the world’s most wave-rich regions. 30.3 is fully composed from end to end.

Photograph by Tom Servais

Beschen felt that tour surfing was lacking the excitement—the sensations of awe and risk and wonderment—that drew him to stepping on a surfboard in the first place.

Page 26

Black Sheep DNA

Shane Beschen spent his professional surfing career raging against complacency. Today, the SoCal firebrand turned North Shore kama‘āina finds plenty left on tap through a blend of family and business ventures.

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Photograph courtesy of the Warren Anderson Collection

Many Indonesians considered the primordial forest of the Blambangan Peninsula to be angker (haunted or taboo) and believed that the area should be entered only for devotional purposes of the purest intentions.

Page 66

Fortune Favors the Bold

Grajagan’s legitimate origin story finally comes to light.

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Photograph by Bastien Bonnarme

Page 46

Gin Joint

Treading the line in Morocco.

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Photograph courtesy of the Bettmann Archive/Getty Images

I could see that the Nixons were in the back seat—his wife, Pat, on my side, Dick on the driver’s side. The limo slowed to a virtual crawl as it rounded the corner. And then, as the car slowly took the corner, virtually grazing my knee, I had a sudden impulse and leaned into the open window, grinned at the prez, and spoke rather forcefully, “Hello there, Big Dick!”

Page 38

Florsheims in the Sand

In 1969, Richard Nixon moved next door to Surfer-founder John Severson. The newly elected president saw the Western White House as a seaside retreat. Sevo saw a story. The San Clemente beach wasn’t big enough for the both of them.

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Photograph by Kim Feast

Page 102

Portfolio: Kim Feast

Finding equilibrium behind the lens in the untamed wilderness of Western Australia.

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Photograph by Kingsley Ifill

I don’t like to surf anywhere else but home these days. And even at home I avoid the “good days.” I really can’t explain it.

Page 20

What’s A Cornishman To Do?

An interview with artist Danny Fox.

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Artwork by DJ Javier

Page 84

From That First Wave

Artist DJ Javier infuses the surf with the street.

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Photograph by Grant Ellis

The van sputtered a few parking spots down to where the next potential board order stood. What exactly was being hawked to me? This backyard shaper allegedly possessed decades of surfboard design, research, development, and history boiled down into a two-dimensional piece of Masonite—a template, a memory stick of curves.

Page 56

Outlining the Experience

How physical templates map a surfboard’s very genome.

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Photograph by Hampus Marcussen

Does Meadows ever feel like he’s backed himself into a corner? Like he’s stuck in the Baltic, chasing ghosts? Sometimes. But mostly he feels like it’s his calling.

Page 92

The Baltic Heart

Questing for Valhalla with Swedish surfer Freddie Meadows.

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Illustration by Steven Burke

Surfing rewires your mind to conceptualize time close to how your ancestors thought about their days. And you can take this episodic time back onto land and see your day as a series of actions as opposed to capital—deciding on the activities that are worth doing for their own sake.

Page 16

Essay: Melt That Clock

Time is money, as they say, but it’s really worth even more. That’s where surfing comes in.

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Photograph by Juan Fedez

Page 120


The issue’s departments fold leads off with our life’s topic plastered against the most famous skyline on Earth. For all of Hollywood’s faults and missteps when it comes to surfing, at least they got this one to scale.

Photograph by Morgan Maassen

Page 122


Irreversible Bikini: The complicated relationship between surfing, hypersexualization, and surf apparel, excerpted from the book She Surf.

Puzzle designed by Enzo Mari

Page 124


An aquatic animal jigsaw puzzle, intertidal zone minutiae as fine-art, and a recollection of total mastery at a reeling pointbreak headline a selection of surf and surf adjacent odds and ends.

Photograph by Ron Stoner/SHACC

Seeing the pool’s curves as similar to the form of a wave’s face, they began flying high on the walls, mimicking off-the-lip maneuvers. This was a decade before it would hit big up in Venice.

Page 126

Surfing Around

A Screeching Start: Surfing and skateboarding’s nascent handshake.

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Purist surf energy from Page One to close-of-book, delivered directly to your door.