Swag Boys

Jai: “We tracked a swell that way and stayed for almost a week. We kept it simple: Wake up and surf, or look for it, then grab a pint and pizza to go in town, head back to camp, and eat a slice in the swags [tents] to dodge the rain.”

Ryan: “The swell just pumped and pumped and pumped. And the best part? There was hardly anybody around. The crowds took off north and south to the name-brand spots, I guess. We didn’t miss ’em.”

Mitch: “There’s different setups—wedges, beachbreaks, a couple points—around every bend and corner. There was always a spot offshore and on, no matter what the wind or swell direction was doing. We cleaned up.”

Harrison: “On one exceptional set on one exceptional day, Ryan took the first wave, I took the second, Jai took the third, Mitch took the fourth, and Ryan, having gotten back out, took the fifth. Everyone got barreled—and Ryan got barreled twice. How often does that happen these days?”