For two months, we’ve basked in fun-size surf with air and water temps that feel almost wrong. A few biblical rain days set the sand, then weeks of clear skies brought offshores and straight glass that locked it in. The faucet’s been running, so the peanut gallery’s complaints are being ignored.
Screening Room
Cosmic Children
by Hal Jepsen
A crucial surf reference for me in my early days that still holds up today, this film features a world-class cast from 1970 surfing to the best surfing soundtrack to date: David Nuuhiwa in Huntington Beach backed by Brubeck’s “Take Five” sets the tone. Cream’s “White Room” adds weight to the playful V-Land session. The Stones’ “Sympathy for the Devil” is aptly placed over Malibu. And countless other top-tier tracks are perfectly weaved throughout this 80-minute film. The long-rail surfing and effortless style in all sections still play back in my mind with clarity, even though it’s been ages since I last watched my VHS copy. Good luck finding one.
Listers: A Glimpse into Extreme Birdwatching
At first glance, this film’s about birding, but the vibe hits like a classic surf edit. It follows two brothers who spent a year crisscrossing the US in a used minivan, chasing rare birds for a “Big Year” competition. The obsession, the chaos—it’s all surf culture, mirrored in a completely different world. Full gonzo, it’s hilarious and feels surprisingly familiar.
Better Listening
Ill Communication
by Beastie Boys
My listening has always bounced between rock, reggae, jazz, hip-hop—usually dictated by mood or what I’m about to do. If I’m writing, I’ll lean instrumental. Heading for a surf, I want something that lights the fuse without blowing it out. In ’94, I was 20. Not a kid, not yet established. The future felt close but unsettled—exciting, with a little edge. I’d pull up for surf checks on the bluffs above Windansea, Scripps, or Cardiff, and, bumping through the 6×9s in my ’84 Plymouth Reliant wagon, this record felt synced with the moment.
Truth & Soul Presents: The Best of The Fabulous Three
by The Fabulous Three
My taste is not nostalgia-based, but I do appreciate sound, art, and design that’s timeless. This record leans on old-world sound but feels like it belongs in today’s world. It’s a project by a collective of musicians from El Michels Affair and Menahan Street Band, and it moves me whether I’m at a desk, pulling weeds, or on the hunt for a surf.
Regrets Only
Right off a flight, I drove straight to pumping Haleiwa. Within minutes, I lucked into an 8-footer. There was some north in it, so mid-ride I kicked out the back, thinking I’d avoid the closeout and save the paddle. I knew better than to go off the back like that on a northerly bomb, but spaced—a vicious double-up, bigger than anything I’d seen, converged from two directions. No escape. Just a heavy lip detonating on my dome. I received the worst rag-dolling of my life—the closest to checking out as I’ve ever felt. Somehow, the board and leash held together. I washed ashore, gasping. I laid on the sand for a few minutes, then paddled back out.
Paper & Ink
Meditations
by Marcus Aurelius
The Roman emperor wrote private reflections on how to navigate life with discipline, perspective, and calm. At its core, he teaches you to focus only on what you can control, accept what you can’t, and not let external chaos dictate your inner state. That clarity has been genuinely helpful to me as a dad and in everyday life, and a reminder that peace is something you build inside.
Authentic Wave
by Tatsuo Takei
There are plenty of surf photo books, but this one sits in our living room—a special place for both the images and the person behind them. I had the pleasure of profiling Tatsuo for TSJ years ago. Check out “Two Decades Behind the Century” here. Learn more about Authentic Wave here.
The Archivist
One piece that always stuck with me is “On Style: Contrapposto and Surfing” from 30.3. It’s the most concise take I’ve come across on the permanence of style. Its author, Scott Hulet, nailed it, pointing to a reference that reaches far beyond our little world and reminding us that good form is timeless beauty. Every conversation about style can start right there. Read it here.
Last Words
What’s always drawn me to eggs is how they ask you to surf from the rail instead of the tail. Bury that sucker three-quarters up on every turn. When it’s done right, it looks almost quiet, but a lot is happening underneath. As Cedar Hobbs’ “Eggheads” piece notes in the current issue, subtle precision and rhythm are what make eggs special. You’re drawing longer sentences instead of exclamation points. When you find one that clicks, it’s hard to abandon that feel for something else.
From TSJ
Devon Howard on Soundings With Jamie Brisick
In this episode of Soundings, Howard talks with Jamie Brisick about what makes a great surfboard, working in surfing, the allure of eggs, the influence of Joel Tudor, riding for Donald Takayama, and traditional longboarding. Listen here.
“Eggs have remained a constant in lineups since their debut,” writes Cedar Hobbs, “inspiring cult-like followings, and their disciples have continued to refine and push the designs for decades. However, recent years have proved a renaissance for the egg and its various iterations—a product of an increased interest in ‘alternative’ shapes, the declining influence of competitive surfing, and a renewed attention and commitment to trim, deep bottom turns, and drawn-out lines.” In our current issue’s “Eggheads,” Hobbs speaks with Skip Frye, Tony Staples, Marc Andreini, Torren Martyn, Kirk Putnam, Devon Howard, Joel Tudor, Bill Minard, and Bob Mitsven about the design. Read the full TSJ 35.1 feature here.
[Feature Image: Devon Howard reps aging gracefully, becoming faster and more minimal each year. His promotion of the egg/midlength via his post at CI has led to envy, criticism, and adulation. Photo by Keoki Saguibo.]
