On Style

Downbeat in Nayarit: Such non-com little waves compose the bulk of our collective surf experience, and their accumulation forms our surf DNA. This happens slowly. Time served. 

Laps taken. From “kookdom” to “semi-together” to “trying to look like a favorite” to (finally and thank the gods) “a relaxed acceptance of our hallmarks and quirks, both positive and mildly annoying.” It’s one of the many ways surfing teaches us humility.

At least part of this journey is equipment-driven. A surfer is well served by spending some early time on a truly neutral surfboard, preferably from one of our master shapers. A board that falls or lifts into perfect trim with almost imperceptible heel-and-toe input. One knows such mastery when one sees it. It yields “invisible” speed. And it’s nondenominational. Once part of you, you can translate things from point-and-shoot long-rail transit to pumping, fin-driven climb-and-drop.

Pictured here? Jim Irons, a member of a clan long known for utter fluency when it comes to trim—and how to break it. Indeed, merely having that surname is something of a cheat code to timeless form.

[Feature image by Leo Hetzel]