1
Dion Agius, Tasmania. I’ve got hundreds, maybe thousands, of sequences of Dion doing airs, some of which ended up in the coffee table book, Dark Hollow, that we made with our good friend John “Spon” Respondek. I first met Dion by coincidence almost a decade ago in a quiet corner of Tasmania. We connected on so many levels, through our love of surfing, creativity, and this place. I owe a lot of my surf photography career to Dion, and I’ll always be grateful for the doors he’s opened and the fun times we’ve shared.
2
Unknown surfer, South Australia.
3
West Side, Oahu, Hawaii. I photographed a pop-up surf event that Vans organized. They brought together local schools and communities for a day at the beach to surf, eat, and dance. The excitement and joy from the kids was infectious—one of the real highlights of my time in the Rainbow State.
4
Hybrids, Tasmania. I spent ten days with ten mates living aboard a ship named Velocity. We sailed to Tasmania’s remote corners—not searching for anything in particular, but we found so much. It was one of the most memorable adventures of my life. This particular slab broke on dry kelp, with the occasional open tube. The fellas drinking beers and hooting from the channel motivated me to throw myself over the falls on a couple.
4
Alex Zadawski, Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania. I’ve found an addiction to the heave of bigger waves, not just to the joy in the danger, but in the intimacy. Being so close to so much power, you feel the ocean breathing. Each wave is different.
For more, check out TSJ 35.2’s “Portfolio: Nick Green,” with an introduction by Sean Doherty.
