On the cover: Chippa Wilson double mugs it while, in the immortal words of The Beverly Hillbillies’ Jed Clampett, taking a dip in the “cement pond.”

Features inside the book offer cuts that span the gamut in craft, era, place, and perspective: A character study of pro surfing’s biggest cryptic. Two decades worth of under-the-radar lineups from across the globe. Slide slipping the masses in a wave riding boomtown. First-person narratives of big-wave surfing’s heaviest feats. A 1960s epoch-marking cartoonist. The figure behind South Africa’s establishment as a surfing powerhouse in the 70s. Modern captures of Waikiki rollers and Pipe lip throws from a shooter decidedly in the mix. Authentic surf, printed and bound.

Photograph by Corey Wilson

Page 26

Pulling Guard

From the city that brought you Pelé and Fittipaldi, Paulista Gabriel Medina sacked the world surfing circuit with stone-faced equanimity. In this profile by TSJ’s Brazilian correspondent, “Biel” finally looses his tongue.

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Photograph by Thomas Lodin

The bank was by no means a beautiful wave, but having it all to ourselves allowed us to surf completely free and be totally creative. No leashes. No forcing it on closeouts. No human obstacle courses. It proved really refreshing, and somewhat reinvigorating, to be able to ride some waves and work through design concepts without the pressure of other people weighing me down.

Page 40

Attention: Chiens Bizarres

In the Côte des Basques, respite is just around the next bend.

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Photograph by John Hook

Page 100

Portfolio: The Hesitant Professional

From government-identification costuming to Second Reef Pipeline swimming, John Hook keeps the viewfinder level.

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Photograph by Geoff Ragatz

As the years passed, my travel mode came to focus less on editorial and increasingly on personal experience. I came to see the benefit of a less-is-more approach to traveling companions, discreet lineups, and staying as far away from the masses as possible.

Page 78

Warning Shots

Observational frames by a passport stamp collector.

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Illustration by Richard Chance

Fear is a totally normal emotion that protects you, but sometimes you don’t need protection. You need to act.

Page 20

Still Rolling

An interview with Rickson Gracie.

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Photograph by Chris van Lennep

“The act of surfing is still incredibly exhilarating, you know? I see a wave breaking and, even with the Parkinson’s, I start thinking about how I can get out there.”

Page 64

The Captain

In the no-holds-barred 1970s, Michael Larmont did it all. As a competitor, explorer, innovator, and businessman, he laid much of the groundwork for South Africa as a surfing nation.

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Illustration by Hokyoung Kim

The candles and the lighters soon went out and the apparition above the stands dissolved. Charlie’s surfing secret was safe.

Page 16

Essay: In Red Texas Dusk

A single wave reverbs across the landscape of time and space.

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Photograph by Ryan Heywood

When a wave face bends or a lip chucks or a foamball bites—or all three at once—the 17-year-old uses his pliable frame to shapeshift his way along and through, responding to every subtle bend and twist with a complementary action of his own.

Page 76

Garrima Means Respect

Australian Lungi Slabb explores the inner reaches.

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Photograph by Kenny Hurtado

We can lament the way things turned out for Cornelius, and pine for what might’ve been, but only if we recognize it as our remorse, not his own.

Page 90

Butch Wax

The lost art of SoCal maestro Butch Cornelius.

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Photograph by Mike Coots

Page 52


A trio of heavyweights recall their most profound and harrowing moments in maxing Hawaiian seas.

Photograph by Daniela Caram

Page 40

Time Out of Mind

A postcard from the fringe.

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The Surfer’s Journal is the perfect gift for every surfer.

Photograph by Tom Pearsall

Page 118


A stickered-eyes deterrent (based on the theory of mimicry) and a public alarm system certainly can offer big fish peace of mind, especially in the activity hotbed of Western Australia. But this North Point drainer? That’s just damn-the-risk enticement.

Photograph by SA Rips

Without even waiting for a set, Sam grabbed a nine-foot gun and jumped in the water. He just knew it was good, and, as soon as he entered the lineup, an oil-slick 12-foot set came through. Perfectly positioned, he swooped into a wave and rode it immaculately.

Page 124

Best I Ever Saw

The Workman’s Approach: Sam Jervis displays humbling Southern hospitality.

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Photograph by Jair Bortoleto

Page 124

Surfing Around

All in My Head: Reality and reveries from beachside rambling.

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Purist surf energy from Page One to close-of-book, delivered directly to your door.