How a timber processing facility in Los Angeles became the nexus between surfing’s balsa revolution and the U.S. aerospace industry.
There’s a certain patch of reef that stretches for hundreds of miles, and it has a reputation for a lot of activity. People lose fish as they’re reeling them in. We saw feeding frenzies from the ski, and even got circled.
In the bone-blasted outback of Western Australia, the desert becomes you.
John Millei drags the surfing experience—still dripping—back to the studio killing floor.
Photographer John Hook shoots the lights out in Waikiki.
THE BACK-FORTY OF THE RIVIERA
At Home With Jeff Johnson.
EVERY DESERT HIDES A WELL
In the late 1970s, a crew of California surf-skaters got wind of the Central Arizona Project, bringing the concept of a surf trip to the Sonoran Desert.
THE EYES OF RA’IVAVAE
Described as “Bora-Bora with wind,” a French Polynesian waypoint in the Austral Islands offers raw-boned nature, zero luxury, and decent odds of reef pass solitude.
PORTFOLIO: NOLAN HALL
Spooning surfing’s decisive moments from the soup of our rebel origins.