Hawaiian stylist Gerry Lopez couldn’t make a takeoff during his first time surfing Pipe in 1963 at age 13. Today, at 74, he is widely known as Mr. Pipeline, after having devoted most of his life to the famous patch of reef. His approach is the expression of a life lived in pursuit of stillness, mindfulness, and regard for the natural world. Sixty years after that inaugural and fateful session, Lopez sits down to talk with Jamie Brisick about the importance of having a meditative state of mind in and out of the water, the moment Pipeline clicked for him, why he doesn’t remember many of his waves, the relationship between yoga and surfing, and pathways to a higher consciousness.
Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.
Music by Farmer Dave & the Wizards of the West.
Feature image by Tim Davis.