Good morning from Tasmania. I’m sitting on my backdoor steps watching Rain, my youngest pup, lick up the spilled mushroom and spinach wrap I cooked for breakfast. She’s enjoying it. Her older sister, Ohana, watches from afar—upset that she’s missing out, but she doesn’t move. Stoicism, it’s a Maremma sheepdog thing. The sun’s out and the Scamander River’s looking glassy as a nut. I’ll be headed out for a surf soon. The air’s getting chillier day by day. It’s almost time to bust out the thermo cup—my favorite ceramic mug isn’t cutting it with this temperature drop. I boiled the kettle five minutes ago and my instant coffee is already stone cold.
SCREENING ROOM
Ceremony
Craig Anderson’s a madman. The way he slides into heavy waves is so calculated. I’ve surfed some bigger days with him and he’ll sit for hours waiting for the right one. Meanwhile, I’ll be getting worked repeatedly from taking off on five shitty, death waves in a row. Also, Craig can jump like it’s nothing.
Hells Angels on Wheels
This 1967 American biker film makes me wanna go on a big old road trip. The cars and bikes in the film are amazing, I just love that era. I was blown away when I first watched this movie and saw Jack Nicholson on screen. I had no idea one of my favorite actors was in this film. Enjoy it here.
FOLLOW ALONG
@gak_hawgholic
@cyclezombies
BETTER LISTENING
Magnolia Electric Co.
by Songs: Ohia
Songs: Ohia is singer/songwriter Jason Molina. His mix of rock, country, and blues is described as “Rust Belt grit with Americana music’s pastoral imagery” by music critic Hilary Saunders. Sadly, Molina died from alcohol addiction in 2013 at the age of 39. But his music lives on everyday through my speakers.
Beach Music
by Alex G
When I first heard Alexander Giannascoli’s music, I was instantly hooked. It made me go out and buy a guitar. I don’t know how to play it very well, but Alex G inspires me to keep at it—especially when I’m nursing injuries.
PAPER & INK
The Tattooist of Auschwitz
by Heather Morris
This is a fictionalized account of Slovakian Jew Lale Sokolov, who was imprisoned at Auschwitz in 1942. He becomes the concentration camp’s tattoo artist and falls in love with a woman he’s tattooing. I couldn’t put this book down—which is rare, as I don’t read often. Pick up a copy here.
HEIRLOOMS
1956 Panhead Harley Davidson
“Scorch” was built by a good friend of mine, Cohen Arthur, and he absolutely nailed it. The flames definitely make it pop. I feel completely at one with this bike. It’s all metal and super mechanical. Crusty old chains link its rear brake and the foot clutch. You have to shift with your left hand via a metal stick with a crystal knob. Heirloom? Yeah right, this bike will be buried with me.
ESSENTIALS
Keep it Dry
When I’m packing for a trip, I always throw the Octopus LOAC 32L dry bag on top of my boards in the coffin. It’s so handy when you’re walking into spots or doing day missions. There’s plenty of room for my wax, fins, wetsuit, towel, water, snacks, and camera. I’ve had mine for years, and it’s still going strong. Pick one up here.
LAST WORDS
Well, it’s been 15 hours since Rain scarfed my breakfast. I’m feeling good from my surf. The waves were pretty big today. I just got off the phone with Brinkley, my partner, who’s free diving at the Great Barrier Reef. I’m a bottle of wine down, reclined on the couch, and enjoying The Wild Ones. The world is opening up again and my mind is busy thinking of where to go next.
FROM TSJ
More of Chippa
In TSJ 31.2’s “Happy Punting,” author Luke Kennedy and photographer Nick Green tail Chippa around his home in Tasmania. Pick up a copy of our new issue for the full feature.
“A small crowd assembles as Chip makes it out the back. One of the world’s most gifted surfers has just shown up at an obscure left on an island off another island at the bottom of the world. It kicks off on his first wave. He scoops low off the bottom and hurls himself beyond the lip like a big cat leaping at its prey in a split-second coalescence of power, grace, and purpose. The kid next to me screams in delight, happily shoeless on an icy day.”
[Feature image by Nick Green]
