Excerpt - Page 3 of 5 - The Surfers Journal

Gringo X

An anonymous ex-pat on Chile’s Atacama coast.

Best I Ever Saw: Joel Tudor on Skip Frye

“He was cutting through water like I’d never seen before.”

Mise en Place

A surfing stray finds himself at work in Paris.

In Unequal Measure

The past, present, and future of the asymmetrical surfboard. Excerpted from the new TSJ.

Reviews: Fluid Studies

Two new books lay out deep knowledge of the tides.

Best I Ever Saw: Alex Gray on Shane Dorian

Heavy paddle waves in the South Pacific.

Best I Ever Saw: Andy Irons

Photographic memories of a Mexican pointbreak session and raw improvisation.

Riders of the ’Storm

Behold: the best-selling surfboard in the world. Excerpted from the new issue of TSJ.

Going Lala

High performance surfing is older than you think.

Best I Ever Saw: Chris Christenson on Harrison Roach

“I have yet to see a surfer do what he did, to be honest with you.”

Edge Boards and The Mysterious Mr. X

The quest for speed at the dawn of the Shortboard Revolution. Excerpted from the new issue of TSJ.

Reviews: True Crime, A Flush-Tank Read, and Surf Legends

Literary material and last-minute stocking-stuffers.