Big Wave Surfer: The Greatest Rides of Our Lives

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A reader-supported surf publication founded in 1992, The Surfer’s Journal is vivid, authoritative, and independent. The goal of each 132-page bimonthly edition? A completely resolved composition. Balance. Color. Story. And purist surf energy from Page One to close-of-book.

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As close as you’ll get to swinging for a 60-footer.

Kai Lenny knows heavy water, its risks and rewards. In this hardbound volume, Lenny offers a glimpse into his unique world. And along with penning a series of his own personal stories and perspectives, he’s collected harrowing big-wave yarns from dozens of his acolytes. Paging through is like sitting around the campfire with surfing’s most legit, only here you’ll get the visual goods to match the no-bullshit stories: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries at Jaws, Peter Mel riding the greatest wave ever caught at Maverick’s, Keala Kennelly breaking the ceiling at Teahupoo, Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking win at Nazaré, Brett Lickle’s incident at Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more.

  • 304 pages
  • Format: Hardcover
  • Foreward: Shane Dorian
  • Afterward: Ian Walsh
  • Editors: Don Vu and Beau Flemister
  • Publisher: Rizzoli
  • Size: 10 x 11-½ inches