Podcast - Page 2 of 6 - The Surfers Journal

Carissa Moore

On staying true to herself, the nuances of expectation, positivity, taking a break from the tour, the realities of pro surfing, athleticism, and her upbringing…

Mark Cunningham

On Pipeline, his first winter as a North Shore lifeguard, bodysurfing mechanics, bravery, wipeouts, waves of consequence, and his heaviest experiences in the line of…

William Finnegan

On Barbarian Days, long-form writing, conflict reporting, traveling, nonfiction narrative, surfing Long Island, and finding an audience.

Shane Dorian

On pursuing his dreams, Todd Chesser and Brock Little, a brush with fate at Himalayas, training, and how to get in position at Jaws.

Jaleesa Vincent

On self-embodiment, taxidermy, her band, dealing with tough crowds, the Rage gang, the surfers and artists who inspire her, airs, and finding liberation in being…

Nate Tyler

On his Central California roots, eschewing competition, filming, pathways to success, shark encounters, family, making art, and creating opportunity.

Jack McCoy

On MacGillivray Freeman Films, learning through trial and error, storytelling, water cinematography, Mark Occhilupo, resisting repetition, and the power of the soundtrack.

Darryl “Flea” Virostko

On growing up in Santa Cruz, his nickname, channeling fear and adrenaline, his worst wipeout, addiction and asking for help, and Maverick’s.

Aska Matsumiya

On the parallels between surfing and musical composition, collaborating with her heroes, authenticity, self-expression, the power of simplicity, piano, the value of improvisation, and taking…

Gordon “Grubby” Clark

On the evolution of surfboard design, market domination, perfecting polyurethane, government regulation, and Blank Monday and the end of Clark Foam.

Cliff Kapono

On the power of science, his journey through higher education, Kaiser Bowls, environmental activism, navigating social hierarchies in Hawaii, and traditional surf craft.

Steve Olson

On surf devotion, sidewalk intimacy, knee paddling, off-the-lip skating, checkerboard patterns, the theatrics of style, punk music, Dogtown, and fatherhood.