Volume 35 Issue 5

On the cover: Tosh Tudor, Teahupoo, Tahiti. “It was the tail end of a big southwest swell,” says photographer Owen Beim. “The evening prior was giant—tow bombs. But the next morning, it was 6-to-8 foot, about as good as it gets. Tosh was alone in the lineup for over an hour. He must’ve caught seven or eight perfect waves in a row, getting blown out of barrels with not another surfer in sight.”

Inside, we follow primitive tracks back to a prized Central American point, dive for uncut gems, and hang with a Canuck shredder. We also rap with the creator of The X-Files, pull into a Caribbean slab, and view the hazy frames of a contemporary shooter inspired by the past. Other sidecurrents include a life-changing ride with a former industry exec, a sci-fi journey into intergalactic creation, and a study of how a Mexican beachbreak is being altered by tourism and development. Pick up TSJ 35.5 for the full trip.

Page 24

COOL CULTURE

The former Surfing magazine editor and creator of The X-Files on transitioning from surf writing to TV, studying with the FBI, and his influences.

By Travis Ferré | Illustration by Andrea Venture

Page 16

THE CHILEAN TIME MACHINE

Temporal travel via two-track.

By Terrence Martin | Illustration by Sam Winner

Page 32

CAT, CAT, CAT, CAT, MOUSE

A love letter to a Puerto Rican slab.

By Dylan Graves | Photo by Jorge Rivera

Page 54

FERAL TURKEYS

The lost boys of early Pavones.

By Cedar Hobbs | Photo by Gene Berger

Page 44

GEMS FROM THE OTHER WORLD

Central California’s jade-hunting community—an underground network of surfers, fishermen, freedivers, and artists—have built their lives and careers around the fabled green stones.

By Holden Trnka | Photo by Russell Holliday

Page 62

EVERYTHING COLD, EVERYTHING REMOTE

As a teenager, Peter Devries vowed to be the best surfer in Canada. Instead, he became one of the best surfers on earth.

By Jules Sabourin | Photo by Marcus Paladino

Page 78

HYDROTHESIA

An interdimensional chronicle detailing the inception of the original wave in the universe. 

By Thomas Lynch III

Page 90

YOUTH VS. ESTABLISHMENT

Troy Eckert’s radical voyage from Volcom executive to surf-psychology guru.

By Kyle DeNuccio | Photo by Arenui Frapwell

Page 98

JUNGLE DREAMS

Argentinian Ez Rivero wanted to be a rock star. Somehow, he became one of Costa Rica’s most in-demand surf photographers instead.

Introduction by Tony John Andrews | Photos and captions by Ez Rivero

Page 128

Undercurrents

How the CIA and Coca-Cola helped spark Brazilian surfing, a recorded conversation between Jack McCoy and Tom Morey, Caroline Marks’ healthy competitive environment, and more. 

Photo by Jeff Divine

Page 114

LIGHTNING THAT BRINGS THE RAIN

How a wall of concrete and a world on pause reshaped Puerto Escondido.

By Kyle Thiermann | Photo by Edwin Morales


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