Working Without a Net


Log In to Receive Your Subscriber Discounts.

Not a Subscriber?

A reader-supported surf publication founded in 1992, The Surfer’s Journal is vivid, authoritative, and independent. The goal of each 132-page bimonthly edition? A completely resolved composition. Balance. Color. Story. And purist surf energy from Page One to close-of-book.

In addition to delivery direct to your door, you'll receive unlimited access to every article we've ever published and discounts on TSJ apparel, merchandise, accessories, and more.

Subscribe Now

Note: Purchasing this feature will give you access to a downloadable .pdf of the feature.

Jeannie Chesser’s home on the back slopes of Diamond Head was covered wall to wall with memories of loved ones now deceased: her best friend Rell Sunn, her husband David, their son Todd—the big-wave surfer of the Momentum generation. When Jeannie is forced to pack up her family home, her daily paddle-outs along Oahu’s South Shore provide some stability.