Working Without a Net

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22.5

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Jeannie Chesser’s home on the back slopes of Diamond Head was covered wall to wall with memories of loved ones now deceased: her best friend Rell Sunn, her husband David, their son Todd—the big-wave surfer of the Momentum generation. When Jeannie is forced to pack up her family home, her daily paddle-outs along Oahu’s South Shore provide some stability.