Surfing and the Pleasure Principle

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Garth Murphy moves to Hawaii at age 5 with his father who was a fisheries biologist. At the time in the 1940s, Hawaiian culture was strong. Hawaiian songs, hula dancing, local history culture and lore was taught in the schools. Murphy moved to La Jolla in 1959. He is initiated into the Windansea crew through their mat surfing ability. His first board was made by Pat Curren and Al Nelson in 1960. He reflects on surfing as it accumulates ancient past times and survival skills involved.