Straight Back To The Cuckoo’S Nest
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A reader-supported surf publication founded in 1992, The Surfer’s Journal is vivid, authoritative, and independent. The goal of each 132-page bimonthly edition? A completely resolved composition. Balance. Color. Story. And purist surf energy from Page One to close-of-book.
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The author, on his equipment selection for 8-10’ tropical reef passes: “The surfboard, if you could call it that, was incapable of going anywhere but straight. Its shaper had that part right at least. It was 8’6”x 23”x 4” and essentially rocker-less, with rails boxy to the point of being square. It looked as if the builder had planed the skin off of a blank from the days before close-tolerance molds and then sent it straight to the glasser, no further shaping required. Complementing a bottom that was conspicuously lacking in contour, the board had a half-baked fin setup with a middle appendage that looked like it could keep the on course. It was either way ahead of its time, or way not.”