Smoke The Whole Pack

$3.99

Log In to Receive Your Subscriber Discounts.

Not a Subscriber?

A reader-supported surf publication founded in 1992, The Surfer’s Journal is vivid, authoritative, and independent. The goal of each 132-page bimonthly edition? A completely resolved composition. Balance. Color. Story. And purist surf energy from Page One to close-of-book.

In addition to delivery direct to your door, you'll receive unlimited access to every article we've ever published and discounts on TSJ apparel, merchandise, accessories, and more.

Subscribe Now

Note: Purchasing this feature will give you access to a downloadable .pdf of the feature.

A memoir of sorts, only this exact author could have injected what feels like a mid-career Woody Allen plot into a tale of XL barrel hunting. The throughline? How does a mild-mannered, vaguely nerdish techie arrange the freedom and time to pursue his life’s mission—driving straight and fast through the heart of heaving Kandui lefts? This is a relatable course of study for most of us. Surfing is constantly at odds with work obligations, spousal entanglements, the DMV. Pounds of flesh are exacted, feelings are hurt. And if you plot out the right course and act with the quickness? The sweet sting of spit on your back.