Smoke The Whole Pack

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23.3

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A memoir of sorts, only this exact author could have injected what feels like a mid-career Woody Allen plot into a tale of XL barrel hunting. The throughline? How does a mild-mannered, vaguely nerdish techie arrange the freedom and time to pursue his life’s mission—driving straight and fast through the heart of heaving Kandui lefts? This is a relatable course of study for most of us. Surfing is constantly at odds with work obligations, spousal entanglements, the DMV. Pounds of flesh are exacted, feelings are hurt. And if you plot out the right course and act with the quickness? The sweet sting of spit on your back.