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“Russ was only 12 when he went on his first swell-chase to Torquay with his old man. After packing the van, they drove 10 hours to Bells to greet 12 feet of Antarctic corduroy wrapping into the Bowl. Russ had a fresh quiver of orange boards, the idea being that if he got into trouble, at least his dad would be able to find him. He’ll never forget what they saw when they arrived that day.”