Carpe Diem

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12.1

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Tor Johnson relates the tale of finding a barreling right-hand wave on the island of Porto Santo, only to discover that the wave looked better from the rail of the boat than from the water. After a moment of euphoria, Johnson and his buddy Yoshi find the wave is too fast, a hopeless closeout. After getting worked repeatedly, they retreat. Johnson reflects on whether the moment of discovery was negated by the actuality, or whether the moment of discovery in itself is the point of the exercise.