Page 16
ALL THE TIME I HAD
Spinning lies and cheating the clock for frigid point surf.
Words by Jules Sabourin | Illustration by Olga Prader
Page 24
INTERVIEW: THE DIRECTOR OF NOCTURNAL ACTIVITIE
Matt Hoy on the industry apocalypse, working as a concreter, aging as a surfer, and more.
By Derek Rielly | Illustration by Ben Brown
Page 32
AESTHETICS: ANDREW KIDMAN
The cerebral and whimsical visual checkpoints of a New South Wales original.
Introduction by Jamie Brisick | Photo by Zack Balang
Page 46
BLUEFIELDS
In Hawaii, surfing’s cartographic and cultural core, a countless number of sessions go down each year. Here are a few high points and perspectives from three iconic spots.
Photo by Christa Funk
Page 50
MIDCENTURY MODERN
A single-fin inspired by 1960s Sunset shows where uncrowded sessions on the North Shore are still hiding in plain sight.
By Harrison Roach | Photo by Shane Grace
Page 56
YOU MUST BE THIS TALL TO RIDE
Reading the room and earning one’s place at modern Pipeline.
By Beau Flemister | Photo by Shane Grace
Page 68
FRAMES OF MIND
The thrill of the Wiki Wiki swell run to Honolua Bay with Cliff Kapono.
As told and photographed by John Hook
Page 74
THE WORD IS AN IMAGE
David Carson’s rebellion by design.
By Kyle DeNuccio | Photo by Denis Delastrac/courtesy of David Carson
Page 90
THE CAPTAIN OF ORELLA
Navigating seven generations of permaculture on the Gaviota Coast with Guner Tautrim.
By Jeff B. Johnson | Photo by Jeff B. Johnson
Page 100
PORTFOLIO: MARCUS PALADINO
Bushwhacking for angles and mental clarity with the Tofino-based shooter.
Introduction by Mikey Nixon
Page 118
GENUS NEOTOMA
Excavating the midden of Mikey Whaley’s Pack Ratt Records & Junk.
By Ben Waldron | Photo by Peter Taras
Page 128
UNDERCURRENTS
Theoretical inventions to clear a lineup, a dispatch from Ecuador, collectible ukuleles, and Butch Van Artsdalen’s quantum leap at Pipeline.
Photo by Christa Funk
Purist surf energy from Page One to close-of-book, delivered directly to your door.