On the cover: Reno Abellira, Dick Brewer, Gerry Lopez, April 1969, Oahu. “We were fueled up with some good smoke and great company,” says photographer David Darling. “When Reno spotted the Makiki water-pump station, we off-loaded our boards and burned through some yoga poses. Next, we stopped in the woods, climbed some trees, and laid out the boards in the groundcover.” Inside the book, features scan from Indonesian shamans, to Art Brewer’s imagery of the quick and the dead, to the barren surrealism of the South Australian surfscape.


[sj_full_text_below title=”Clare in His Blood” byline=”By Daniel Crockett” page=”Page 22″ teaser_text=”Tom%20Lowe%20on%20the%20big%20wave%20stage.” image=”702958″ text_overlay=”“I’ve never been a winner. That’s not my thing. When I’m sitting on the inside bowl, and I get a huge set on the head, I expect it to happen. I enjoy that part of it too. I’m used to it not coming easy.”” overlay_color=”white” credits_text=”Photo by Al Mackinnon” credits_color=”white” /]

[sj_full_text_below title=”Electric Blue Maybes” byline=”By Beau Flemister” page=”Page 32″ teaser_text=”Risks%20and%20rewards%20on%20the%20Westside%20of%20Oahu.” image=”702959″ credits_text=”Photo by Jeremiah Klein” credits_color=”white” /]

[sj_full_text_below title=”Fiction: Lucky You Surf” byline=”By Cort Gifford” page=”Page 40″ teaser_text=”Greer%20surfed%2C%20and%20occasionally%20shot%20craps.%20He%E2%80%99d%20never%20been%20to%20Hawaii%2C%20but%20that%20didn%E2%80%99t%20mean%20he%20wasn%E2%80%99t%20lucky.” image=”702960″ overlay_color=”white” credits_text=”Illustration by Armando Veve” credits_color=”white” /]

[sj_full_text_below title=”Offerings” byline=”Introduction by Steve Barilotti” page=”Page 48″ teaser_text=”Art%20Brewer%E2%80%99s%20altar%20of%20rarities.” image=”702964″ credits_text=”Photo by Art Brewer” credits_color=”white” /]

[sj_full_text_below title=”Good Trouble” byline=”By Steve Barilotti” page=”Page 68″ teaser_text=”The%20continuing%20education%20of%20Dave%20Rastovich.” image=”702970″ text_overlay=”At one point, after his father’s wake, one of the local groms proposed that a surfer of Dave’s ability could ride anything, even a coffin.” overlay_color=”white” credits_text=”Photo by Todd Glaser” credits_color=”white” /]

[sj_full_text_below title=”The Sikerei of the Islands” byline=”By Matty Hannon” page=”Page 80″ teaser_text=”Tattoos%20and%20reef%20waves%2C%20shamans%20and%20cultural%20collisions%20in%20the%20Mentawai.” image=”702971″ text_overlay=”At midday, Lepon and I walked along a new gash that severed his tiny hamlet, the first road ever to connect the village to the outside world. The mud from the half-constructed motorway had the appearance of a bloody coagulation—oozing, sticky, and warm.” overlay_color=”white” credits_text=”Photo by Heather Hiller” credits_color=”white” /]

[sj_full_text_below title=”Portfolio: SA Rips” byline=”Introduction by Sean Doherty” page=”Page 98″ teaser_text=”West%20of%20Pointerville%2C%20through%20the%20lens%20of%20a%20South%20Australian%20shooter.” image=”702976″ credits_text=”Photo by SA RIPS” credits_color=”white” /]