Kirra on the 12th of June during the big swell. I havn’t seen it as big or breaking out so far since the late '60s early '70s. What I couldn’t believe was that the tow-in guys weren’t surfing it but instead staying close to the Point, getting short rides, and then getting eaten. Words/Photo: Mal Sutherland
"Surfing equates to living in the very moment of 'now.' When you ride a wave you leave behind all things important and unimportant, the purity of the moment is upon you.” - Bill Hamilton. Photo: Shawn Parkin
When it's pumping and seemingly getting bigger by the minute, sometimes a wave comes through that nobody wants a part of. This Cloudbreak beast would qualify. Even with both the world's best competitive surfers and the world's best big-wave surfers gathering on Tavarua for this swell event last week some waves bowled through unridden. Seems restraint can be the better part of valor...especially when you consider that the green board in the lip is about nine feet long. Photo: Tom Servais
"It's feelin' great, ya know." And why shouldn't it? At 45 Occy's surfing somehow seems as relevant as ever. Maybe it's his use of rail that resonates. Maybe it's his charisma. Either way, there will always be an appreciation for turns like this. Photo: Jason Kenworthy
One last gasp of west swell energy. A lone bump rolls through into Santa Barbara County, offshore kissed and well appreciated. It'll be a few months before the North Pacific turns back on again, but nostalgia's a wonderful thing. Photo: Michael Kew
A perfectly sublime day at a headland that was created about 6,000 years ago as part of a lava flow from the Tweed Volcano (now Mt. Warning). Next stop Lennox Head. Photo: Tom Servais
When you get every good wave behind the rock at Snapper, you've earned the right to make everybody else look silly. While the sunburned hordes chaotically scurry for scraps, styled to the hilt, you can almost hear Parko whistling through this tunnel, as if to say, "Wow, this is fun." MP would be proud. Photo: Swilly
Anthony Marcotti has spent more time in Indo than most of us, be it on boat or land camp, so you have to figure that he's seen his fair share of "epic" surf, but he seemed exceptionally excited about this particular wave: "I think I just caught the best wave of 2012 at Rifles. 400-plus yards, 30 seconds-plus in the barrel over 6 sections, the most perfect wave I have ever caught." Kind of makes you envious, doesn't it.
Trevor Gordon on a tiny finless asymmetrical shaped by Ryan Lovelace. The board is the second version of the "Rabbit's Foot" design, and given how good the last few days have been around the greater Ventura/Santa Barbara area, Gordon's had ample opportunity to put it through its paces. Photo: Michael Kew
In a recent conversation with Santa Cruz surfboard builder Bob Pearson he noted that the last couple of months have been pretty good around town. "From one end to the other, we've been having fun," he said. Apparently the glass-off hasn't been half bad either. Photo: Ryan Craig
Small surf doesn't always mean no surf. "I set out to capture some of these spinning little vortexes underneath the tubes of small and clear Laguna Beach. I was pretty stoked to come away with a couple good frames." Photo: Shawn Parkin
As you read this the first south swell of the season is finding its way to Southern California shores, and will inevitably give those Newport faithful that so doggedly follow the Wedge a reason to go down to the beach. By no means is it huge out there today, but considering how flat it's been for the past month, any ripple that can be ridden will suffice. And if you can score a view like this, all the more better. Photo: Shawn Parkin
If a surfer pulls into a hollow one off the pier and there's nobody there to see did it really happen? No need for philosophical banter, this unidentified Central Coast tubester has witnesses from multiple angles to vouch for his cover up. Of course, this also means he can't lie and tell his buddies it was a 10-second, double-overhead shack. The truth does come with a price. Photo: Shawn Parkin
Right now Art Brewer, JP Van Swae and some of their friends are in Puerto Rico teaching a class about surf photography...which may or may not be relevant these days as Van Swae took this shot with his iPhone this afternoon.
Before Tom Servais left for Australia a couple weeks ago, per usual, he was hemming and hawing about whether or not he should make the trans Pac journey. He had his heart set on the Gold Coast and the impending Quiksilver Pro, but was concerned about it "being worth it." We tried to convince him that it would be a fruitless endeavor because nobody wants photos from a contest. He booked passage anyway. Then yesterday he sent a bunch of images our way from a just-gone-down session at South Straddie. We're glad he didn't listen to us. Brett Simpson, doing work. Photo: Servais