Mike Doyle, 1964, with 18' Dick Brewer paddleboard, weighing 17 pounds at the Diamond Head race. Made of think balsa skin over ribs, paddled prone only. On display at Reyn-Spooner store, Honolulu.

Matt Walker’s zany recollection of his outclassed meeting with Carol Browner, Obama’s Climate and Energy “Czarina,” at the White House about climate change, greenhouse gas standards, fuel efficiency standards, and dependence on foreign oil.

John Ritter’s 1975-1979 journey through the South Pacific basin filled with mostly solo surfing, fishing, living aboard his trimaran, teaching local Samoan students, and beautiful sunsets, finding Tavarua along the way.

Growing up in rural Recife, Brazil, on a chicken farm, Carlos was introduced to surfing at age 13 and quickly advanced in the local contests and earned his parents’ backing. Passionate for bigger, overhead waves, Carlos left home at 17 and slowly gained acknowledgment for his nation and himself in the big-wave realm. After nearly three decades, Carlos still loves the challenge.