Photograph by Alfredo Escobar; three surfers in Punta Lobos, Chile watch a wave roll in.
John O'Malley's retrospective looks back on the ten-year run of the Stone Steps Invitationals in Encinitas, California. In this contest for and by the members of the local surf business community, an 82-oz. resin bucket of beer precedes each 15-minute heat, ensuring a rollicking good time on the beach.
Aamion Goodwin, Mark Healey, Cory Scott, and friends spend 17 days travelling and scoring on the New Zealand coast. From beach breaks to reef breaks, they surf it all, with marathon drives and treacherous overland jaunts in between. With conditions familiar to natives and harsh to the visiting Hawaiians, this day-by-day account mixes the best that New Zealand has to offer with the appeal of the open road.
With an introduction by Steve Pezman, this piece features images by Ron Stoner, from the photographer's personal stash. These images evoke the feeling of Stoner's Orange County haunts in the 1960s, ranging from classic portraits and action shots of some of the era's legends to depictions of surfing from an artful distance.
Dan Duane provides a personal account of meeting and interviewing pioneer Rush Randle on Maui. Explored are Randle's forays into invention and innovation, from the advent of strapped surfing to the first hydrofoils to kiteboarding. In addition, Duane incorporates Randle's personal story, from his difficult family life to his experiences as a sponsored athlete from a very young age.
Kimo Hollinger talks about surfing with Paul Gebauer on the North Shore of Hawaii in the late 1950s. The music of Richard Kauhi Quartet in Hawaii and the jazz scene, the comparison of blues music to the Hawaiian struggle. Adventures "knowing Miki Dora, Conrad Cauha and the funeral of Sandy Kahanamoku and surfing at Ala Moana Yacht Harbor" are told.
John Severson's "Take Offs" paintings are improvisations from "Surf Fever" book images. The paintings are inspired by the original stoke of early surfer photos and films.
Garth Murphy moves to Hawaii at age 5 with his father who was a fisheries biologist. At the time in the 1940s, Hawaiian culture was strong. Hawaiian songs, hula dancing, local history culture and lore was taught in the schools. Murphy moved to La Jolla in 1959. He is initiated into the Windansea crew through their mat surfing ability. His first board was made by Pat Curren and Al Nelson in 1960. He reflects on surfing as it accumulates ancient past times and survival skills involved.
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