Journal Entries
= Subscriber content
Journal Entry
When Wayne told me he'd bought a sailing boat so he could access some of the remote islands around where he lives, to tell you the truth, all I could think of was the trouble he could get...
Journal Entry
My first ride into J-Bay was with Piers Pittard in his bakkie, overnight from Durban through the newly created Transkei with a rifle and handgun for no fun. Africa by night, where stars...
Journal Entry
$680,000 is a lot of money. It's a whole lot of money for a bunch of old surf stuff. But that's what the final tally came to on Saturday night at the Surfing Heritage Vintage Surf Auction....
Journal Entry
From our first meeting, Skunk and Denny’s excitement was sincere, but for us, not telling. From the crowded beaches of Brazil to the East Coast of the U.S., I’ve dealt with ecstatic local...
Journal Entry
The wave's as good as any day at The Wall. It's missing the palm trees swaying in the breeze and aging beach boys hustling tourists, but there is sand. Plenty of it. You'll find this wedge...
Journal Entry
Sutherland's style wasn't artistic. His stance, whether riding regular or goofy foot, was nearly symmetrical, the left side of his body mirroring the right, almost like a paper doll...












