TSJ Archives
Volume 19 NO. 1 - Winter '10
Taking flight in this issue of TSJ, history abounds as Sam George expounds on the “winged approach” while Kirk Lee Aeder takes us back to the Big Island’s ancient days. After an extended hiatus from tropical climes, Timmy Turner returns to his feral ways in Jeremy Rumas’s first story for the Journal. Miles Masterson makes the case for why Carlos Burle deserves all the respect in the world. Plus, Alan van Gysen and Pat Stacy show their photographic wears, and somehow Chuck Graham remembers the forgotten archives of poster artist Rick Sharp.
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Cover
Mark Healey, Backdoor, Pat Stacy
Page One
Mike Doyle, 1964, with 18' Dick Brewer paddleboard, weighing 17 pounds at the Diamond Head race. Made of think balsa skin over ribs, paddled prone only. On display at Reyn-Spooner store, Honolulu.
Table of Contents
Late fall, minus tide, Hampton Beach, New Hampshire
Mr. Green Goes to Washington
Matt Walker’s zany recollection of his outclassed meeting with Carol Browner, Obama’s Climate and Energy “Czarina,” at the White House about climate change, greenhouse gas standards, fuel efficiency standards, and dependence on foreign oil.
The Rules
Secret spot: Perfect waves along Maine’s rugged coastline and the lack of access to surfers that has cropped up during the past decade in order to keep it private and low profile.
Yeah, I Know Cloudbreak
John Ritter’s 1975-1979 journey through the South Pacific basin filled with mostly solo surfing, fishing, living aboard his trimaran, teaching local Samoan students, and beautiful sunsets, finding Tavarua along the way.
Epicenters of the Ali'i
Junior and CJ Kanuha lead Kirk Aeder to the sacred surfing heiaus of the Big Island with the stories of ancient Hawaiian surfing ali‘i and their surfing locations, which have been documented throughout Hawaiian history.
Rise Against
Growing up in rural Recife, Brazil, on a chicken farm, Carlos was introduced to surfing at age 13 and quickly advanced in the local contests and earned his parents’ backing. Passionate for bigger, overhead waves, Carlos left home at 17 and slowly gained acknowledgment for his nation and himself in the big-wave realm. After nearly three decades, Carlos still loves the challenge.
The Flight Plan
Ultimate surfari: seaplane surf exploration. From an imagined Prince Kahikilani’s search for North Shore waves via air instead of his solo canoe voyage to the Bukit Peninsula to Baja, California to the Bahamas, fellow surf pilots’ tales of adventures to never-before-seen surf breaks.
A Roll of the Dice
A remote Indonesia boat trip with Dustin Humphries, Mikala Jones, Daniel Jones and Timmy Turner: the boat, the crew, and perfect sets.
The Forgotten Archives of Poster Artist Rick Sharp
Rick Sharp’s career as a poster artist brings him full circle in California’s surf subculture of the ’70s.
Up the Reef
Navigating the central east coast of Queensland, Australia, surfing and fishing the Great Barrier Reef is not for the faint-hearted. Head to the Town of 1770 for a live reef break.
Africa Hot
Alan Van Gysen is one of Africa’s most respected surf photographers. In this photo portfolio, Alan takes us to the numerous bays and points and nooks and crannies of his home country of South Africa and beyond. Namibia, Mozambique, Morrocco, and even the illustrious Rapid 11 on the Zambezi River tamed by kayakers and river-goers, but also surfers under Van Gysen's initiative. Gysen's surf photos are strong, and South Africa is rich in surfing wilderness and adventure.
A Pat Stacy Portfolio
26-year-old Pat Stacy’s water-shooting ride from Mission Viejo to Western Australia.
Undercurrents
San Onofre Picture Album from Don Davis 1960-1964. Film review for Sea of Darkness by Ben Marcus, and Lavese Las Manos: A visual let down by Joel Patterson; observations of surfing naked and its moral holiday by Lydia Cobb; surf trip to Morocco and the Green Waves Project by Chris Hipley; Peter Spacek.
