Blending the true story of uncovering a world-class wave and a world champion’s take on altering the course of surfboard making, this latest issue of TSJ offers up a multitude of looks at the state of our art. But, of course, there’s more. Beyond the features expounded upon below, former TSJ associate editor Christian Beamish adds insight into his shipbuilding experience; in his first piece for the Journal Zach Weisberg finds Ralph Waldo Emerson “surfy;” Miles Masterson expounds on Dungeons and the new film The Perfect Ten; and R.S. Kulisek adds a lump of sugar to Harry Gale’s Daily Grind.
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The Taking of Pohnpei
You will find Pohnpei in the Federated States of Micronesia, one of three Senyavin Islands within the Caroline Island chain. It can fire for weeks on end and was first surfed by only a handful from the '60s into the '90s. Fast forward to the late '90s and the secret's unleased with the first surf camp opening in 2004—Pohnpei is no longer a secret.
The Body Electric
Surf philosophy: like 19th century transcendentalist thinkers, surfers, source their inspiration from the natural world. "Sufing is thinking, as it hinges on the profound engagement between an active mind and its environment…."
Table of Contents
Wade Goodall, smoking down-the-line, Nias.
Revisionist History
It's an epic way to travel and surf—sometimes. Christian recounts the harrowing journey of his sailing trip in the winter of 2009 from San Diego to Baja, California, aboard his handmade 19th-century-style work boat "Comorant". Now he's back home, rested up, and ready to take on the West Coast of North America.
Page One
July 2008, Newport Beach, CA, just north of The Wedge during a once-every-ten-year southern-hemi. "The incoming wave energy was creating equally powerful outgoing rapids producing rhythmic swirling patterns up the beach as far as the eye could see".
Cover
Dusty Payne is flying high in an elevated lien-air and in total control.
At Home in the Shine Shack
Mike Shine moved to New York City from Syracuse to pursue a career in advertising eventually ending up in San Francisco because his mind was on surfing. Mike proudly shows off his uniquely evolving "Shine Shack," which he reproduced in exacting detail for his first major show. Mike strives to keep his life in balance through his art, his accomplished advertising career, and surfing.
Kelly Slater Wants To Change Your Surfboards: A Time For Change
Kelly Slater's surfboards have always been a little different. From the utlra-narrow glass slipper shortboard designs of his youth to now, wider and fuller (often quad fin) very short boards, Slater's one of the few pros who isn't afraid to tinker with design. Don't be too quick to suggest that Kelly can ride anything and hence his theories don't apply to you. Here, he explains what his vision of the modern surfboard looks like and what that means to you.
Mike Hynson: Transcendental Memories of a Rebel
Mike Hynson, the ultra-clean looking robin-hood to Robert August's Batman in the Endless Summer, made a drastic left-hand turn in the late sixties. Eventually busted for running drugs, in this article and excerpt from his book, Hynson recounts his days from Bruce Brown's surf subject to film star to transcendental drug running to present day.
Cowboy From Hell: Jon Steele's Texas
Jon Steele is proud to hail from the Lone Star State and makes the best of tanker waves and hurricane swells to shoot Texas' finest surfers.
Rote: The Peruvian Cheetah of Nemberala
Two years into a solo worldwide surf trip, Chaplin finds herself sharing the lineup at Nemberala on the island of Rote with Felipe Pomar. Felipe and Susan fall into a daily routine of surf, exercise, and storytelling. Susan continues her wave riding journey and attributes Felipe for instilling her with his passion for surfing.
Where the Swell Begins: An Interview with Walter Munk
Find out where the "Source Waters" of the summer swell begins as Walter Munk describes at length his oceanic discoveries of the last 70 years. He has played a key role in predicting swells since WWII along with the first tsunami warning system. Munk pioneered the study of acoustic tomograpy, and is author to more than 200 scientific papers and winner of numerous scientific awards.
Wayne's New Road By Andrew Kidman
Now in his late fifties, Wayne Lynch launches his 50-foot catamaran to access the remote islands of the South Australian Bass Straight. A surf trip is organized with Andrew Kidman and Dave Parmenter to explore the surfing possibilities of this ominous sea. Accompanied by "The Low Lighthouse," by Henry Lawson.
Portfolio: Seth de Roulet
Seth de Roulet has never been published in a surf periodical until now. Enjoy his intense pulled-back views along California's coast.
Undercurrents
Vince Street takes to the sky for a Maverick's contest. DVD reviews: "Last Hope," by Andrew Kidman, Tiffany Campbell's debut surf film, "Dear and Yonder," "Korduroy TV," by Cyrus Sutton; books: Rob Havassy's coffee-table compilation "Surf Story," "Fierce Heart" Stuart Coleman's Makaha story, and "Deep Water," by Brendan McAloon. Miles Masterson reviews the film "The Perfect Ten," a decade of surfing Dungeons. Harry & Beans Coffee Company complements Harry Gale's surf lifestyle. Vanessa Janss feels like she is living one of her father's stories: from Topanga beach in the '20s to the Wilderness Coast of Australia in 2009.
















