TSJ Archives
Volume 13 NO. 4 - Fall '04
Sucking the Marrow Words and Photos by Yasha Hetzel, A Shaper’s Fugue By Dave Parmenter, The Tube Words and Film from George Greenough, The Grassy Knoll (Morocco with Dan Malloy and Shane Dorian) Words by Dan Malloy, Photos by D. Hump, Pretty Much Thomas Campbell’s Evident Hand By Scott Hulet, The Great Oceans of Atmosphere: Tubesteak Tracy by Ben Marcus, Mothership Connection: Martin Daly and Company in the Caribbean Words and Photos by Jason Murray, The Golden Error: True North Shore Stories by Jeff Johnson, Portfolio: Andrew Shields. PLUS: Black Op Surfboards, Steve McQueen surfing, Live Nude Curls, The Ugly, Men in Tutus, New Guinea surfers trimmed to the nines on hunks of plywood, Matt Kivlin’s first shape in nearly half a century.the volume number Volume 13 NO. 4 - Fall '04
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PDF Downloads From this Issue
Cover
Cover photo of Shane Dorian in Morocco by Dustin Humphries. Headlines are: "Porfolio: Andrew Shield"; "Hero Frame Grab by George Greenough"; "Discovery in the outer Carib"; "Gone Bush with Yasha Hetzel"; "Pretty Much: Thomas Campbell's Evident Hand" and "John Severson's Take Offs".
Page One
Surfrider Foundation's 20th anniversary gala in Culver City recap. The auction's 30 replica surfboards went for $235,000. A Lopez 1970s Coral Cruiser model sold for $21,000 and a Matt Kivlin balsa and fiberglass board was sold to Tom Peck for $45,000.
Table of Contents
Table of Contents photo of Sean Peterson photographed by Dave Nelson. Table of Contents include: "Wali Kam!" by Jess Ponting and photos by Jason Argyropoulos. "Sucking the Marrow" in Indonesia and Western Australia by Yasha Hetzel. "A Shaper's Fugue" by Dave Parmenter and photos by John Bilderback. "The Tube" by George Greenough. "The Grassy Knoll" with Shane Dorian and Dan Malloy with photos by Dustin Humphries. "Pretty Much" portfolio of Thomas Campbell by Scott Hulet. "The Great Ocean of Atmosphere" of Terry "Tubesteak" Tracy in Malibu.
Wali Kam!
Jess Ponting travels to Papua New Guinea and discovers the indigenous people evolved from surfing on wooden "splinter" boards to making their own boards after the introduction of modern surf technology by a traveling Australian pilot. They discover another community of surfers off the surfing map using no commercial surf products. All the boards were handmade from wood. Fin attachments and shape enhancements followed with the introduction in the 1980s of a surf magazine helped propel surfboard design.
Sucking the Marrow
Yasha Hertzel travels on the Indian Ocean and meets Westerners like Zane who moved from the U.S. to live the simple live in the wild frontier of Sumatra. He befriends two Hawaiians that surf and bodyboard on their way to Bengkul. They take a catamaran to Tanabala and Tanamasa Islands and then Thailand. Hertzel crosses paths with many other travelers along the way who tell stories about their adventures chasing surf, sailing and living amongst the locals. After Thailand he goes to Western Australia to get tubed with Gene Hardy and meets local groms raised on surfing mornings before school and camping on the beach when the swell is good.
A Shaper's Fugue
Dave Parmenter goes through the mental process of shaping a custom board for Flippy Hoffman using a unique rocker bent by Matthew Barker who worked at Clark Foam. Flippy's life stories as a California surfer that went to Hawaii in the 1950s and as a diver and sailor informs the shape of the board. Parmenter argues in favor of the difference between shaping by hand versus using a computer-controlled machine. Though imperfect and not as exacting and minutely precise as a machine, evolution of surf shaping is propelled by handshaping as an art.
Legend Waves the Tube: As Experienced and Described by George Greenough
George Greenough's fantasy to get and make a deep tube with the camera. He succeeds at Lennox Point and shows the ride frame by frame.
The Grassy Knoll: Dan Malloy Parses a Moroccan Hideaway
Dan Malloy and Shane Dorian are led by two English blokes to an undiscovered interesting wave in Morocco that they call The Grassy Knoll. Malloy draws maps of the unique break.
Pretty Much: Thomas Campbell's Evident Hand
Profile on artist Thomas Campbell, his disciple "Seedlings," the making of his movie "Sprout," his Econoline van that houses his quiver and artwork and a chronicle of his rise as an artist and filmmaker in the DIY misfit art, skate and surf community.
The Great Ocean of Atmosphere: Malibu in the Golden Years, as Seen Through the Eyes of Tubesteak
Ben Marcus talks to Terry "Tubesteak" and wife Phyllis Tracy about the origin of his nickname, the origin of the shack in Malibu and what Malibu was like in the 50s and 60s with Miki Dora, growing up in San Onofre in the summer.
Mothership Connection: The Indies Trader Scares Up a Solid Wave Field in the Outer Carib
Jason Murray's travel diary is the spokesperson for a boat trip in the outer Caribbean with surfers David Aubrey, Jason Borte, Nathan Fletcher, Danny Fuller, Jimmy Rotherham, Steven Slater, Timmy Turner, Adam Wickwire and Matt Kechele on the lookout for virgin waves.
The Golden Error: North Shore Stories by Jeff Johnson
Jeff Johnson tells short stories about living on the North Shore. The tales include Kevin Horn fighting a dog, Johnson's interview with Mormon missionaries to get into BYU in Hawaii, canoe riding from Oahu's North Shore to Mokuleia, diving and swimming at night, fights with night marchers and neighbors, and a big stormy day of closeouts.
Portfolio: Andrew Shield
Photographer Andrew Shield shares some of his favorite shots of the best waves and scenic interests primarily around the Gold Coast of Australia. Surfers Troy Brooks, Dean Morrison, Munga Barry, Glen Hall, Dan Wills, Bede Durbidge and Simon Massey are some of the surfers photographed.
Undercurrents
Undercurrents highlights of Vol. 13, No.4 include a photo of long-distance paddler Larry Capune. A whale washes up at Ocean Beach in San Francisco. Santa Barbara Maritime Museum hosts the exhibit "George Greenough: Beyond Surfing." Walter Hoffman and John Creed explore El Salvador. Reviews of Michael Dweck's book, "The End" and William Claxton's book, "Steve McQueen."
