TSJ Archives
Volume 13 NO. 2 - Spring '04
A Night at the Cantina By Allan Weisbecker, Tarzan Redux: Gene "Tarzan" Smith By Malcolm Gault-Williams, Meganesia (Micronesia) By Shawn Shamlou, Gallery: Different Strokes, Tapestry: The Face of New Zealand Surfing By Logan Murray, Home of Oil and Water: Fiction by Carl Keane, Belief System: The Bonzer Saga By Steve Barilotti. Plus... Buzzy Trent by Dr. Dorian Paskowitz, a bomb photo portfolio, Mick Burnside’s Australian slabs, mayhem at Cortes Bank, hitchhiking across Australia.Volume 13 NO. 2 - Spring '04
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Cover
From behind the wave, a slash of spray, as James Lewis focuses ahead.
Page One: Oxnard Shores - Summer of '69
Summer of '69. Four young surfers walk up the beach at Oxnard Shores. Black and white photo that captures the stoke of the young Campbell brothers and friends, in an era of changing surfboard design.
Table of Contents
Brian Bielmann captures what appears to be a snokeling underwater photographer intensely avoiding a breaking wave whose curved lines and boils hint at the power cascading over the shallow Tahitian coral reef.
The Old Man on the Mountain: This is a Story of a Brat
This is a story within a story. How a young brash Southern Californian surfer, Buzzy Trent, from the Malibu in-group of the late 50’s goes to Hawaii and through osmosis attains and exudes the true Hawaiian spirit. His story of his protection by old man on the mountain mirrors his own maturing in the land of aloha.
Rock Soup
A photo spread from locales around the globe featuring surfers such as, Mick Fanning, Kalani Robb, Dean Morrison and others. Photographers, Patrick Trefz, with several exceptional seascapes, Jack English’s classic J-Bay and other interesting shots are just two of the excellent photographers featured in this balanced depictions of surfing, surfers, places and situations, found in the exceptional everyday ocean experience.
A Night at the Cantina by Allan WeisBecker
A Night at the Cantina is an historical account of the discovery, development and devolution of a surfer’s paradise, the Pavones region in Costa Rica. This chance discovery of a mile-long left point wave the absence of which this intriguing story with its myriad characters and events would not be told. Allan Weisbecker’s story, a chronological narrative of defining moments and key characters along with his stream-of-consciousness immersion into a night at the Cantina on his Big Five-O, is a story great novels and screenplays are derived from.
Tarzan Redux: Chapter Fill-ins from the Life of Gene Smith
This continued documentary of “Tarzan”, Gene Smith, pioneer waterman and unsurpassed paddle-boarder, closes the chapter on a fighting man’s slow descent and return to a sanctuary in the California desert. From the tragic death of his mother at age 7, fighting and defending himself and his younger sister from the ravages of angry guardians and local street gangs to his self-imposed exile from society in the lumber camps of Oregon, he blazed a trail, ‘cruising for a bruising’ in the ‘30s that earned him the nickname “Tarzan”. Migrating to Hawaii from Southern California, he established himself as a pioneer waterman and a record holding marathon inter-island paddler, often unheralded and largely unsung, a loner on ocean and land.
Galley: Different Strokes
Three Southern California outdoor impressionist surfer-painters meet at San Onofre Surf Beach for a day of painting and surfing. Just as an accomplished surfer knows the ideal takeoff spot, so the “three amigos” migrate to the same vantage point above the beach to paint the scene in their own impression. This compare and contrast article photographs each of their finished works from that day, and also highlights each artist’s technique, brushstroke and palette with a high-resolution section of each work. Accompanying these photographs is an interview with the three artists. This unusual exercise and informative article is a study in diversity and the art appreciation.
Tapestry: The Face of New Zealand Surfing
Logan Murray’s story and photographs weaves a tapestry of New Zealand’s surf culture through a series of brief introductions to the established surfers down under the Long White Cloud.Ken Thomas (K.T.) calls himself a painter, not an artist. His style is fully immersive, lots of paint, big brushes and drawn from life’s experiences. A six-board quiver straddles the pacific, from his house in Raglan, N.Z., to Sunset Beach, Hawaii, where his guns are stashed.Chris Ransley, a reinvigorated heart-bypass survivor, longboarder and big fast motorcycle rider adds to the N.Z. tapestry.Roger Hall, bucking the trend, following his own path, a master craftsman, once shunned as eccentric and weird, now a mainstream sought-after talent who prefers the former social stigma. His one-of-a-kind not-for-profit boards are highly prized collector’s pieces.Anthony Parata, a quiet, articulate Maori, devotes himself to the preservation of native culture and reintroducing at-risk Maoris to the ancient woodc
Home of Oil and Water by Carl Keane
Kraycheck, an angry young exiled haole, a small-time drug peddler and self-proclaimed student of the human condition, meets the disillusioned Dead Boys at the berm on Beachton beach to conduct a drug deal. Beachton, a paved-over polluted California beach, is central to this story set in the mid 1970’s.
Belief System: The Long, Strange Saga of the Bonzer
Malcolm and Duncan Campbell, with the critical support of their father, Jack Campbell, design and develop a remarkable surfboard, the Bonzer. Their story, borne out of a caring, peaceful, world, where each decision made, creates a pathway to follow and a point to proceed from. These two brothers, like time-travelers, traverse modern surfing’s history, from the short-board revolution to present day and beyond. Their perennial stance on quality and perseverance is a recipe for sustained endurance, where dreams meld with reality and all good things last. It’s what they do.
Out Of The Blue by Mike Burnside
Australian, Mike Burnside shares a few words and some epic moments in this distillation of the essence of Western Australian surfing.
Undercurrents
“The Cheap Seat”, or the appropriately subtitled, “Boil Dodging at Cortes in a Grand Fashion”, defends the controversial actions of Captain Ron Hart in placing his craft, the 72’ Jet-propelled Catamaran seemingly dangerously close to the surfing playground at Cortes Bank in January 2004. The Field report, “Across Oz for Life”, describes Jimmy McMillan’s effort to raise funds to support the Balinese victims of Sari Club terrorist bombing. Academia’s, “Haolier Than Thou”, describes intriguing research by archeologist, Terry Jones and linguist, Kathryn Klar, as to the influence Polynesian mariners on the inhabitants of Chile’s and California’s coastal natives, as well as other Pacific Islanders. Library’s, “An Island Unto Itself”, is a review of a book by Caroline Unger on New Jersey’s Long Beach Island. The Screening Room gives a positive review of Sean Collins’ Surfline DVD Series’ “Lesson Accomplished: A Day of Surfology 101”
