Like all editions of TSJ, this newest example furthers the notion that surfing is a blend of art, adventure, and a life well lived. Beyond the features listed in detail below, you’ll find… Derek Hynd; art shooter Liz Cockrum; Tubesteak Tracy; Bob Simmons at giant Point Dume; Explorer Kevin Naughton on the Australian national character; Bad Vibe Bob, and a selection of the year’s finest surf photos from all known coordinates. “In the realm of surf publishing, TSJ continues to play ‘French Laundry’ to the competition’s ‘Taco Bell.’” — Reese Harper, Hanalei, Hawaii
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Page 16
Taming The Silver Dragon: A field report | By Rusty Long
Photography by A. J. Neste |
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Page 28
The Transformation of Tom Stone | By Paul Holmes
Photos by John Bilderback, Jeff Divine, David Pu’u |
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Page 40
Searching For Michael Peterson | Print excerpts from a film by Jolyon Hoff
Primary photos by Aitionn and Jeff Divine
The once powerful and influential surfing genius of MP, who crumbled into a state of mental disarray in middle age, is a wistful topic of discussion amongst his friends, fellow surfers, and aficionados of the sport. Filmmaker Hoff makes it the subject for a road-trip gathering process, searching out Peterson’s haunts, peers, and period journalists, collecting their thoughts and recollections in an attempt to decode that “wild, rebellious, and magical side of surfing” that faded along with MP’s grasp on life. |
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Page 52
Blue Mountains Constantly Walking: Liz Clark in the South Pacific
Primary photos by Bali Strickland with Scott Aichner and Morgan Campbell
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Page 64
Gallery: Inside Out | By Bolton Colburn
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Page 70
Ramblings in Vacationland: Finding Offshore Maine | By Brian Nevins
Photos by Brian Nevins and Nick LaVecchia
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Page 80
Surfland: Joni Sternbach’s Ageless Renderings
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Page 88
Spirits of the Land: A paddle for Preservation from Gaviota to Mexico | By Ethan Stewart
Photos by Branden Aroyan and Reeve Wolpert/NativeCalifornia.com
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Page 96
Point Pursuit: Yassine Ouhilal scours the Atlantic
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“The premise was to surf the Quintang River Tidal Bore during its biggest week of the year…” Organized by Surfing Americas’ Mike Gerard and Mike Cianciulli of Surf Line, hosted by Chinese entrepreneurial group The Wabsono, Mike, Rusty, Greg Long, and Mark Healy, while being cared for like high-caliber Olympic sportsmen, apply their jet ski and surfing skills to wow tens of thousands gathered at the Tidal Bore Hotel during the week of the Moon Festival.
While on the surface a standout Surfer magazine cover boy of the early ’70s, beneath that veneer Hawaiian surfer Tom Stone was a drug-dealing tough guy and con, struggling for his identity amongst the North Shore clash of socio-economic realities. Realizing that his life path was on a dead-end street, he uncovered his higher self though his dedication to family, a return to the harmony of wave riding, and by revering the roots of his own culture.
A slight blonde girl who grew up on the ocean, sailing with her parents, who entered and departed the realm of competitive surfing, graduating UCSB in Environmental Studies, describes the deeply ingrown ethic, sense of balance, discipline, and view of nature’s rhythms acquired by cruising the South Pacific, often solo. “A sailing-to-go-surfing mission is anything but easy. There are no handbooks…”
“The work of Andy Moses challenges some interesting boundaries.” “Okay, so your dad is a famous artist, what do you do with your life?” Answer: Andy’s work focuses on the horizon. There’s plenty of stimulating art-speak in this piece by Colburn, himself an ex-school boy National surf champion now cutting-edge Director of the Laguna Museum of Art, writing on surfer/painter Moses. Andy’s paintings subtly deliver a surfer’s romanticized perspective of the edge of the ocean becoming a visual fantasy within the reflections of its reality.
“After nine years of searching through Maine, I’ve gathered only a handful of memorable sessions. A reasonable person might look at that as wasteful, but I don’t see it that way.” Brian describes a rich, rugged, and endless coast of which is almost impossible to mine for waves without doing the time. No hit-and-run strategy will yield the full fruit of these 3,500 miles of coastline with over 3,000 offshore islands, yet brief tastes prove worthwhile.
Using a historical 19th century process generally associated with American Civil War photography, Sternbach’s large-format box camera images of wave riders surprisingly changes how we perceive them.
Nole Cossart and Chadd Konig paddle the California coast to call attention to the threatened development of a surf-friendly, biodynamic stretch of rolling green foothills and centuries-old ag land known as Naples.
Stunning images of points and of the ethnic cultures that go with them: Originating from the unlikeliest of places, Montreal, Canada, Yassine began traveling and photographing frigid northern coastlines, often stumbling onto perfect setups that weren’t breaking. “I find that discovering a good setup is almost as exciting as getting good waves.” When eventually he comes back and they’re firing, he likes to think of the results as “returns on investment.”