Volume 19 NO. 6 - Winter '10
Price: $20.00
White as the pure driven snow, the latest edition of TSJ has arrived just in time for the holiday season. Opening the issue up we go for a quick walk and talk on the beach with the Waimea lifeguard ensemble, while Felipe Pomar earnestly recounts his "impossible" tsunami ride from 1974. At book's end we gain more insight into the term "Wach and Roll," and cheerfully offer up a stocking-stuffer of a media roundup. As for the main course, here's your goose with all the trimmings:
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Below The Roar: Walking at the Bay
Jake Howard describes it as a "sewing circle of lifesavers and weirdos." Just days before the Eddie is slated to start at Waimea Bay, Jake joins regulars Kerry Atwood, Abe Lerner, Jeff Doerner, and Mark Dombrowski for their morning ritual of "Walking the Bay." Sounds like a great way to get your heart rate up.
Tsunami, The "Impossible" Ride
Felipe Pomar and friend Petey Block were waiting to paddle out for exercise on the morning of October 3, 1974. Suddenly everything around them began to tremble, nearby houses collapse: earthquake. Felipe and Petey decide to paddle out and quickly find something is terribly wrong with the ocean. Paddling for their lives to make shore safely, did Felipe and Petey ride a tsunami wave that day?
Of A Piece
Big-wave surfing devotee Gary Linden "is a major part of big-wave surfing and its direction in competitions." Linden is a true craftsman and has been shaping surfboards since 1967. His dearest endeavor is the formation of the Big Wave World Tour, and at 60 years old, he still paddles out on big days.
Emergency Response
Relief workers and wave riders appear to crave and thrive in extreme conditions. Surfers are becoming known for their humanitarian and relief force to disasters around the globe, running search and rescue, medical triage and treatment, and distribution of emergency supplies. Since 2004, individuals and organizations such as SurfAid International have been very influential in relief efforts from the devastating earthquakes in Padang, Haiti, and Chile.
Uncle Val
All around waterman, Valentine Ching, Jr., has spent a lifetime surfing the waters of Oahu and is known as the pioneer of shortboard surfing on his paipo. He and his father began designing and riding paipo boards when he was only 7 years old, riding both kipapa (prone) and ku (standing) style. "Uncle Val" is busy passing the torch on to his children and their generation by encouraging and teaching Hawaiian culture, farming, arts fishing practices, and, of course, paipo shaping and riding.
On Craft
Dave Parmenter shares his passion for surfing and surfboard shaping. He believes if you are shaping boards by computer, you are not a true craftsman: "You have to get in there and work with these things on a three-dimensional level and build them with your hands." A single-fin surfer, Parmenter makes boards to surf the way he wants to surf and his advice for those that are interested in shaping is to "be interested in everything. Try every surfboard you can get your hands on."
The Hunters: Aamion Goodwin and Mark Healey's Freediving Exposition
Kanoa Zimmerman captures Aamion Goodwin and Mark Healey's love of free-dive spear fishing. Even before they considered themselves surfers, they were free diving, which paid off as great training for big-wave surfing.
Way, Way Out in the Far, Far East
There are waves to be had in Taiwan, with few Westerners to ride them. There is great potential for surfing tourism along this coastline and Dr. Lee and his "fat cat" developers are looking to our visitors for advice. Too bad the surf was good that day.
Indian Ocean Pass
Michael Kew arrives on Mauritius eager to surf. Harry, his first taxi driver, delivers him to Macondé, and then Dakesh takes him to his dream spot, Tamarin Bay. Luckily, a high-surf advisory was heading straight to Tamarin.
Mark Dillinger's Baja Suite
With hundreds of Mexico trips under his belt, Mark Dillinger definitely remembers Mexico. Enjoy his inspirational artwork and take a journey Baja way.
Youth In Revolt
One of modern surfing's first groms, Bob Holland lives in the here and now, but you'd think he's a teenager. His daily workout and perspective keeps him young. He's been an active shortboarder since the mid-'60s, still travels halfway around the world to surf, and remains the only surfer to win U.S. titles on all three coasts; a true inspiration to the sport.
Portfolio: Tyler Cuddy
Learning photography in Hawaii, Tyler Cuddy began to develop his skills and "pursued it like an addict." He finds his inspiration not only from surfing but also from fine art, and can't imagine himself doing anything else.
