Header for Anonymous Users

The Current Issue of The Surfer's Journal

Issue 24.4 is bookended by a North Shore appointment with Mason Ho and a Portuguese tube session with Kelly Slater. The rest of the book wanders from a snowbound slab in the Baltic Sea to the architecture-and-design studio of Stephen Alesch. The swamps of Florida, the pop iconography of Mike Salisbury, some overland routes through Java, and the pine forests of the Pacific Northwest also make an appearance. An abundance of surf riches perhaps more wisely spent over the course of a year. Being gluttons, we packed them into a single issue.

Page 18
Mason Ho Makes You Feel Warm All Over | by Derek Rielly

Mason Ho Makes You Feel Warm All Over

With papa Michael as pathfinder, uncle Derek as inspiration, and sister Coco navigating alongside, Mason Ho’s rise as one of the most exciting (and improvisational) free surfers of his generation seems to have been mapped by his blood kin. Supporting staff includes his radio-control-truck-driving crony Bruce Irons, the Andino clan, a few girls who like to party, and a dude named Cheeseburger. Derek Rielly profiles a surfer hell-bent on taking full advantage of his talent, his surf celebrity, and his bloodline.

Page 32
On Song

On Song

Spain, North Carolina, Indonesia, Hawaii, Australia, New York, Sri Lanka, and Southern California. A photo gathering with all the appeal of a hook-laden, beat-dropping surprise hit.

Page 52
Father Pop | by Joe Donnelly

Father Pop

Steeped in what he describes as “the streamlined, space-aged” aesthetics of Southern California, pop culture creative Mike Salisbury was on hand for the birth of surf media, then worked alongside Michael Jackson, Jann Wenner, Steven Spielberg, and Francis Ford Coppola. Life experiences, and influences, ran the gamut from being in the tsunami-path of the nuke tests at Bikini Atoll, to the numbing normality of L.A. tract sprawl. How Salisbury “defeated communism with sex, drugs, and rock and roll.”

Page 62
Old Growth | by Mark McInnis

Old Growth

Vast tracts of the American coastline remain comparatively unspoiled north of the California border. Photographer Mark McInnis, and surfers Hank Gaskell and Greg Urata, haul their foul weather slicks, a few thrusters, and about 60 pounds of gear into the coniferous rainforest in search of wild salal berries, low-tide mussels, and untapped setups.

Page 76
We Rose In The Dark | by Robert Pancho Sanchez

We Rose In The Dark

Tri-X film and recollections from Florida’s 1970s Space Coast: “My father, always a social drinker, had returned from Vietnam an alcoholic. Shaken by my brother’s terminal illness, stoic and unable to deal with the emotions wrought by his troubles, he escaped to his job, his vodka, and occasionally tennis. Outside of our station wagon’s windows, the Atlantic Ocean swept eastward, from light green to dark blue, ending at the horizon and low-lying gray-white clouds. It was a sunny day, but underneath the pier it remained dark, cast in shadow. I was suddenly conscious of the enormous gulf between the kids bobbing in the surf and me, at 13, stuck inside the car, riding in the backseat with my little brother and sister. Surfing at that moment seemed the epitome of autonomy.”

Page 84
Before Morning | by Phil Jarratt

Before Morning

In the wake of the Indonesian Gestapu genocide, during which almost 100,000 people were slaughtered on Bali alone, Kuta Beach was still a lonely stretch of gritty yellow sand, unridden waves, and fringing reef, frequented only by a small population of local fishermen and a few village kids. Then a handful of roving surfers, a wave of hippies, a few scoundrels on the lam, and some enterprising locals (plus the blackout surf) congealed to create a thriving surf scene. How Kuta went from backwater to the “Surf City” of Southeast Asia.

Page 92
The Journey Is Not The Destination | by Nathan Myers

The Journey Is Not The Destination

The rewards of the Javanese road trip are various: Pumping swell. Empty lineups. Hollow reef setups. New horizons. The deprivations, on the other hand, seem to come in equal measure. Three overland strikes on the world’s most densely inhabited island, just a hop, skip, and a slog through a barely-maintained road network, 620 miles of jungle-choked coastline, and a few bridgeless rivers.

Page 106
Dreaming Valhalla | by Daniel Crockett

Dreaming Valhalla

“The border between the world and us is thinner here, permeable. The stillness in the forests seeps through the pores. The pines flow to the water’s edge. There are reindeer and wolves among the trees. Their tracks pass close by our cabin in the morning snow. A white hare bounces away across the frozen beach. There are ice fishermen on the lake who stare at our surfboards. The Baltic guards her secrets well.”

Page 108
Slashing With Stephen Alesch | by Jamie Brisick

Slashing With Stephen Alesch

With a work and design schedule that can routinely run from seven in the morning until well after midnight, Stephen Alesch employs surf sessions, culinary explorations, and his home in Montauk as escape valves. Author Jamie Brisick drops in and finds a life of architecture and design (plus cooking and wave-riding) executed with critical abandon.

Page 116
Kilometer 80

Kilometer 80

A vehicular mishap leads to unanticipated perfection for Kelly Slater and photographer Todd Glaser.