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The Current Issue of The Surfer's Journal

In our first issue of 2015 we island hop from a French rock in the Atlantic to the crumbling colonial manses of French Polynesia. We also visit the rarely surfed Pacific coast of a remote Indonesian atoll, the cedar forests of Vancouver Island, and then return to more continental-based matters in North Africa, Australia, and the Golden State. The subject matter is as diverse as the geography. Assorted features cover the hydrodynamic properties of marine plywood, a coastal art movement that took root in 1930s, the projected light installations of L.A.-based artist Peter Schroff, and the aerial permutations of free surfer Dion Agius. Full disclosure of the contents below.

Page 20
The Man From The Year 2000 | By Jed Smith

The Man From The Year 2000

Five years ago, Dion Agius was among the most progressive free surfers in the world. Now, at 28 years old, he has found ways to remain relevant beyond his still-abundant aerial skills. Aussie based journalist Jed Smith tags along on a shoot in New South Wales and finds that, behind the lens, Agius is not only a savvy business operator, but also a film director, a digital czar, and a hustler with a schedule that would exhaust most suit-and-tie workaholics.

Page 32
California Scene Painters | By Gordon T. McClelland

California Scene Painters

Even before California achieved statehood and settlers came panning for gold in the 1800s, the light, space, and semitropical climate of the region had begun to draw outdoor artists interested in working on location. The genre that sprung up around this trend—watercolor and oil works that captured moments from everyday life in mining camps, rural farming zones, and coastal regions—came to be known as California Scene Painting. And as the movement progressed, surf life increasingly surfaced as subject. Curator, collector, and author Gordon T. McClelland offers a guided gallery tour.

Page 38
Raimana Van Bastolaer Does Not Own A Boat | By Chas Smith

Raimana Van Bastolaer Does Not Own A Boat

At home with the unofficial mayor of Teahupoo: “Raimana Van Bastolaer is in demand. There is Quiksilver, and all the Quiksilver surfers, in one of his houses causing trouble and dreaming up schemes. There is a crew of seventy shooting a Visa commercial in one of his other houses. It stars Kolohe Andino, apparently, ordering pizza on a cellphone in a barrel. There is the Point Break production team, somewhere. There was Gisele Bündchen and a Chanel crew who just left. And there is the Billabong Pro coming in just five days and, with it, badly color-blocked trucker hats and Red Bull. And Raimana runs it all. And that is why this pile of French rot at the end of a two-lane road is called ‘Raimana World.’”

Page 50
Seeing Fatima’s Eyes | By Thomas Campbell

Seeing Fatima’s Eyes

Photographer, artist, and filmmaker Thomas Campbell first visited the Kingdom of Morocco in 1991, trailing the regular surf migration south by bus from Europe, camping on headlands in the desert, and holed up in a village to paint in the Atlas Mountains. He was 23 at the time and cites the journey as one of the chief formative experiences of his life. In the more than two decades since, he’s been back no less than ten times. The accompanying portfolio of photos span these trips and eras, and offer an outsider’s view of a country much loved by the eye at work behind the shutter.

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A Lousy Slave | By Jamie Brisick

A Lousy Slave

Peter Schroff emerged from Echo Beach in the 1980s as an avant-garde artist, shaper, and performer operating a decade ahead of the times. Over the course of his career—as variously a sculptor, interior designer, installation artist, and overall purveyor of attractive diversion—he’s continued to inhabit a mind-space and layer of creativity beyond the horizons of the norm. Journalist Jamie Brisick jams with Schroff in L.A., sampling his latest interests and holding court with his miscellaneous compatriots.

Page 78
Côte Sauvage | By Don Wallace

Côte Sauvage

Two American surfers find solitude and sanity on the French island of Belle Ile: “During that time, life happened. We became parents, writers, editors at magazines. Somehow, perpetually scraping by, we recapitulated our origin story every year by escaping the world for the island. We sank our roots into the village, kept our heads low, bought butter and eggs from Madame next-door and a freshly garroted chicken from the next village over. And then, in the seventh year, the year we finished the staircase and could sleep in our house at last, we brought over our first board.”

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Tales From Punanjar | By Emiliano Cataldi

Tales From Punanjar

The Indian Ocean is the main engine that fuels our dreams and images of Indo. But a small crew of surfers who went exploring on a remote island in the Pacific learned that there are also gems tucked along the chain’s “forgotten” coast. Rain, flat tires, dirt roads, and unexpectedly flawless surf in the Indonesian Pacific.

Page 94
The Big Dream | By Joe Donnelly

The Big Dream

Robert Heeley was known for his over-saturated surf art and his lifestyle as a wave gypsy. But darkness followed, no matter where he went, or how brightly he painted his images. Journalist Joe Donnelly visited The Ranch to profile Heeley just weeks before the painter tragically took his own life. The resultant piece of writing is a deeply personal snapshot of a man who, just as it seemed his existence was falling into order, was ultimately overcome by his demons.

Page 100
Those Many Unmarked Miles | By Malcolm Johnson

Those Many Unmarked Miles

Jeremy Koreski grew up fishing for salmon with his father and trawling for surf with his pals along the wind and swell battered coast of Vancouver Island. When he picked up a camera, he found that the waves and the raw beauty of his surroundings blended seamlessly with his natural photographic abilities. B.C. writer Malcolm Johnson unpacks Koreski’s talent, his environment, and his upbringing, all paired with a deep cut of the photographer’s best images.