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The Current Issue of The Surfer's Journal

Bodysurf legend Glen “Redwings” Whitford (RIP) soaks the ink on page one of issue 24.2. The book expands from there. Ryan Burch and Ozzie Wright seek out the duende in the muscular left points of South America, a Japanese triptych covers the macro and micro experiences of surf-life in the Land of the Rising Sun, and other features range from a Hindu priest in Bali (who does five-foot airs), to the terrifying/wondrous paintings of fine artist William Mackinnon.

Page 18
The Endless Baptism of Freshly Created Things | by Richard Kenvin

The Endless Baptism of Freshly Created Things

Kenvin explores South America with a crew that includes Ryan Burch, Ozzie Wright, and Nate Tyler. For the author, the trip offers an opportunity to grieve the loss of his father in an environment far removed from his native California. In the process, he finds pumping left points, high-concept surf craft, and a local culture that embraces both the spirits of the dead, and the Muses of ever-renewing creation.

Page 34
The High Priest of Uluwatu | by Tommy Schultz

The High Priest of Uluwatu

Before surfing helped transform Bali’s southern peninsula into some of the most expensive real estate in Southeast Asia, the land was considered nearly worthless. Now, breakneck growth has left many to question whether Bali is in danger of losing its identity to mass tourism, pollution, and overdevelopment. In a culture that holds reincarnation at its core, the next generation is searching for the bridge between the island’s legendary past and preserving its future. The answer could lie with Mega Semadhi, a Hindu priest—who is also a ripping professional surfer.

Page 44
Triple X

Triple X

Photographic moments from Tin Ojeda’s grit/surf reel, Expencive Porno Movie: “I love Grindhouse and Blaxploitation movies from the 70s. I ideally wanted my surf film to be something that kind of mixed visual and audial elements of those films but with the artistic flare of more recent directors. Over several months I filmed nearly all day, every day, up and down the coasts of California and New York. I just wanted to make something that I would actually want to sit down and watch myself.”

Page 54
The Islands Underfoot | by Ben Mondy

The Islands Underfoot

Hawaii is littered with surfboards. Some ancient, some just hours old. Boards are made, boards are destroyed. Boards lay under garages and in the back of battered trucks. They are lined carefully in racks or hang on walls or on the edges of rubbish dumps. They were made by somebody, for somebody, and then were either treasured, discarded, ignored, or mistreated. Yet some surfboards have stories worth telling. The five surfboards in this feature all have such a history. They have changed the lives of the men riding them, and in some cases even the course of surfing itself.

Page 62


Four years ago, fashion photographer Thom Gilbert quit his day job and set out for Alaska to photograph fishermen. Inspired by Richard Avedon’s iconic portrait collection, In The American West, Gilbert’s goal was to strip back his gear and simply show his subjects unfiltered and up close. As the project grew, he branched out to include other resonantly American subgroups, eventually landing on surfers. Hundreds of portraits later, he shared a sample of eleven with us to showcase the results.

Page 70
The Speed of Light and Dark | by Alex Weinstein

The Speed of Light and Dark

“William Mackinnon’s landscape paintings portray the Australian terrain and the road laid upon it with ebullience, wonder, whispers—and even terror. The artist makes paintings you can almost inhabit. His visions of the rural parcels around Melbourne capture the vastness of his domain in manners both terrestrial and emotional. But movement and displacement abound in his pictures too, conveying temporal urgency with stunning effect.”

Page 80
Japan Triptych

Japan Triptych

Three features, all seated in the widely varied surf zones of one of the most complex, technologically developed, and culturally refined nations on Earth. Author and magazine editor Shigeo Morishita explores the life of the working surfer in “Concrete Islands of the Salaryman,” visiting pro Kohl Christensen chases typhoons and drinks snake wine in “Godzilla Death Spin,” and expat surfer/photographer Scott Bailey offers a foreigner’s view of a land of occluded beauty in “Draining Water from the Sun.”

Page 98
The Mariner | by Chris Dixon

The Mariner

Harrison Ealey pioneered Cortes Bank, did the Islands alongside first-gen big-wave luminaries like Buzzy Trent, and sailed the Pacific Coast of South and Central America with pals like Phil Edwards. He also partied with Martin Brando, and was once jailed in the South Pacific for cavorting with a French diplomat’s daughter. Sea tales from a pirate contained herein.

Page 106
Real Time

Real Time

As a staff photographer for Surfline, Jeremiah Klein is paid to document swell events and imminently post the results, making his work seem virtually omnipresent. As anyone familiar with the demands of the digital news cycle will attest, though, a lot of work goes into being everywhere at once. Here, thirteen photos pull back the curtain on Klein’s high-pace process, and showcase the absolute cream from a necessarily deep body of work.