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The Current Issue of The Surfer's Journal
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On the cover, Shane Dorian commits to a hard-earned drop at Nazaré, Portugal. “There is no way to paddle back out after catching a wave,” he explained. “Relying on a water safety jet-ski is the only way you can really paddle the place.” After catching his first-ever wave at the spot, Dorian sat on shore for almost an hour before finding a ride back into the lineup, where he sifted through the roiling peaks and paddled into this beauty minutes later. Inside issue 22.3 eleven feature stories combine rich photography with fine writings from Lewis Samuels, Christian Beamish, Sean Doherty, and Charlie Smith. Preview the 100-plus page of pure editorial in this edition:
Page 20
Pseudo Escondido | By Christian Beamish


Pseudo EscondidoIt’s a crude sport—packing tubes. Take one thumping beachbreak. Add a little performance-enhancing squirt from some modern machinery. The methods are as lawless as the thrill-seekers. Christian Beamish reports on the stretch of black sand in Mainland Mexico where it all goes down.

Page 32
Lightweights Hauling on Sand-Bottom Spinners | By Andrew Kidman


Lightweights Hauling on Sand-Bottom SpinnersStephanie Gilmore was an unlikely candidate, at first, for Andrew Kidman’s single-finned experiment. Putting a Dave Parmenter-shaped craft through the paces on a three-day run of Queensland point surf, Gilmore’s line-drawing, as per photographic evidence, proves inscrutable.

Page 40
Between Strokes | By Jamie Brisick


Between StrokesA look at the work of Brooklyn-based contemporary painter Jules de Balincourt, earning his fine art bones with salt-caked neo-folk and a boatload of reference points.

Page 48
Daily Driver | By Daniel Ikaika Ito


Daily DriverShortboard modernist and archival shaper CJ Kanuha takes a self-shaped Olo out for a session near his home on the Big Island. Never mind that the board, built from Acacia koa, cost as much as the truck he hauls it around in—Kanuha’s is a labor of pure enjoyment.

Page 50
Natural Selections | By Sean Doherty


Natural SelectionsA portfolio of the finest images from Andrew Buckley. “Shorty” as most people call him, has not only evolved with the changing landscape of surf photography—generally, he keeps ahead of it. Sean Doherty provides a close look at the lensman’s career.

Page 70
Point Solutions | By Steve Shearer


Point SolutionsFrom his beginnings on the pointbreaks of Santa Barbara and mid-’60s Hollister Ranch to his current outpost in Byron Bay, Michael Cundith has made a life whittling high-velocity headland runners.

Page 82
36 Hours to Durban | By Will Bendix


36 Hours to DurbanA border run from South Africa to Mozambique for warm but fickle tuck-and-run sand points.

Page 90
The Short Happy Life of Lighthouse Jetty | By Denny Aaberg


The Short Happy Life of Lighthouse JettyDenny Aaberg recounts the lifecycle of his favorite home break during his teenaged years: “Nobody knows for sure when the transformation was complete, but one day in ’59, probably at low tide, a glassy northwest windswell rolled in, found the jetty’s sculpted sand bottom, and peeled off through the virgin cove in a proud sand-grabbing barrel.”

Page 94
Presumed Extinct | By Charlie Smith


Presumed ExtinctAcross surfing history there is often a Right Historical Side and a Wrong Historical Side. Drop-knee bodyboarder Paul Roach enjoyed world travel and Momentum fame but as his peers ascended, Roach hit a dead-end. Charlie Smith examines the uncalculated value of surfing’s evolutionary cul-de-sacs.

Page 100
EuroAtlantica | By Andreas Jaritz and Mario Hainzl


EuroAtlanticaTouring Western Europe for the filming of The Old, the Young and the Sea—a look at the lesser-explored surfing micro-cultures, and the characters who comprise them, in France, Spain, and Portugal.

Page 110
Outré Bar | By Lewis Samuels


Outré BarIn Ocean Beach, San Francisco, long period swells are easy to come by. Four-day-long storms from Japan combining with perfect weather are not. Lewis Samuels recounts his experience of the rare, well-tuned conditions.