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Home > Volume 18 NO. 3 - Summer '09
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Volume 18 NO. 3 - Summer '09
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Feature Excerpt: Her Regency |
A Fisherman’s Hunch. First Tracks at the Bosenquet Bombora
Words and Photos by Tony Harrington
A 68-foot prawn trawler. An unruly swath of Southern Ocean. A captain with a hunch. Those are the three pivot points for this unlikely—and highly sketchy—odyssey. The skipper had the GPS fix for the seamount. An epochal swell train was moving north. The only challenge was getting there. Storm-tossed and wave-bludgeoned, the crew made their way to the place called Bosenquet. Finding a quintuple-overhead, utterly virgin slab, the boys sacked up and whipped in. Game on. An adventure for the ages.
Her Regency. The Bracing Life of Carol Schuldt
By Jaimal Yogis, Photography by Tommy Bensko
They call her the Queen of Ocean Beach. At 75 years of age, Carol has been sliding The Beach for half a century—longer than anyone else. Her mode? No board. No clothes. Nude…and loving it. Wrap your head around that for a moment. San Francisco, year-round, no wetsuit. No less singular on land, Carol runs a boarding house of sorts for creatives, surfers, and outcasts. She grows her own food, pedals her way around town, and has a raft of accumulated wisdom worthy of our lended ears. Scootch in close to fire and listen up.
The Norfolk Variations. Taking Stock on the Last Innocent Island
By Tim Brindlecombe, Photography by Andrew Shield
“It is one of several breaks dotted off Australia in the south Pacific, about 1000 miles ENE of Sydney. It is place of stunning scenery, brutal but colourful history and locals so friendly it's almost awkward. A rugged 20 miles of coastline dominated by towering cliffs, some 400ft high, is pounded by giant southerly swells spawned below Australia, or northerly swells coming down from Fiji. Access to the island by boat is severely limited. There are no safe harbour facilities and container ships anchor offshore with whaling boats dispatched from a couple of jetties on the island to fetch supplies…”
The Coast is Clear. A Jeff Canham Sampler
By Brad Melekian
“His installations—little pieces, big pieces, words, caricatures—blend together and invite a taking-in, and while anybody can appreciate what's happening on the wall, a surfer can stand before a piece and feel like they've broken the cipher, like they've gotten a special insight into what's happening. And that's the poignant part: Making us all remember that we're a part of something—sometimes funny, sometimes profound, but something. And that we have roots.”
Inside Pope’s Cathedral
By Nick McGregor, Photography by Larry Pope
Early chronicler of the East Coast’s nascent seventies growth spurt, Larry Pope brought a highly tuned surfer’s eye to his work. A longtime distributor for Clark Foam in Florida, Pope has always been fully engaged in the core Right Coast Experience. The attention to detail learned in the board building game certainly informed his photography. This portfolio of his greatest hits shows exactly how Larry opened the world’s eyes to the quality on offer in FLA.
Ouanaloa
By Russell Drumm, Illustrated by Peter Spacek
The inimitable Rusty Drumm on Carib.
“Even as armies of mortgage bankers sink slowly into red mud, an unbridgeable moat of tax-free Euros surrounds this place. No vagrant surf dogs here, not at $25 per chicken. Each villa of the hotel tucked in the far corner of the bay goes for $2,000 a day. In the island’s main harbor, the wealthiest people alive tie their 200, 300, 400-foot plastic galleons, flags of the world’s tax havens flying ostentatiously from their transoms.”
We’re hoping Rusty doesn’t hit us with an expense report for this one.
Tripping Through Japan
Words and Photos by Jamie Brisick
Rocking a Fulbright Fellowship, Brisick came to Japan fully sponsored. He presented us with 13 short bios of exemplary Japanese surfers, primarily told in their own words—like Junji Icheda:
“…Get a breakfast and amino acid at 7-Eleven. After two hours surfing, competitive surfers have light meal at 7-Eleven (no-competitive surfer have a beer and sleep). Some people stay on Saturday night for Sunday surfing. Most surfers stay Minshuku or their car. Square-style Van is popular, it is called "One Box" and they convert the back cargo to bed. Some 7-Eleven in Chiba has hot shower for the surfers to sleep in their car.”
 All this and much more Well Beyond Standard fare…
Like surf trips to Brunei and Libya, partying mob deep in Malibu, Skindog tube views good enough for the cover, a bowling left in the French Riviera, and a Vaquero-style carnitas recipe that will blow your crew’s collective mind. What’s not to like? Consider subscribing.
Scott Hulet
Editor, The Surfer’s Journal
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