|
|
 |
Home > Back Issues > Volume 15 NO. 1 - Early Spring '06
|
Volume 15 NO. 1 - Early Spring '06
|
| |
Still that Way By Mickey Munoz; Comfortably Numb: Shane Peel's Victoria By Shane Peel; Barry Britton's Celtic Lines By Kevin Naughton; The Advocate By Daniel Duane Photos by Mark Gordon; Down at the Sugarmill Words and Photos by John Bilderback; Tenshi no Hashigo-A Fishing Village in Japan Words and Photos by Scott Bailey; Rodrigo and the Art of Fun By David Holmes; Up the Cape Words and photos by Brian Nevins.
Plus
beachglass as nature's gift, sailing on another's dream cruise, Jeff Divine on a strange day down in the Pacific, a make-you-quit-your-job photo feature, and surfers mixing with Manhattos for a Surfrider benefit.
|
Comfortably
Numb: Shane Peel’s Victoria
By Shane Peel
Remember how your folks told you to be on your best behavior when
you visit someone’s home? Well, like so many pearls of parental
wisdom, that advice extends to grown-up life too. For example,
down in Victoria, if you act like a yobbo and “upset even
the local store clerk, there is a good chance you will get to see
your car as the centerpiece of a bonfire,” Shane Peel tells
us. In addition to the local “peacekeepers,” there
are rather large, toothy fish, extremely frigid water, and, of
course, pumping reef points fueled by the mighty Southern Ocean.
Bring a thick suit and a bigger board; Shane Peel wants to show
you around his adopted home.
|
Barry
Britton’s Celtic Lines
By Kevin Naughton
It’s back to the ould sod with Kevin Naughton at the helm
and artist Barry Britton scrawling away in his Tullan Strand studio.
There’s rich surfing heritage in Eire that grows naturally
from the coastal culture of the west, and Britton’s art endeavors
to capture that blend. He succeeds wonderfully with his pen and
ink drawings that invite a close study. “When the common
building practice was to stucco everything in sight, Barry was
a lone voice for the use of native stone materials that paid homage
to the past instead of plastering over it,” Naughton writes
of his friend’s aesthetic sensibility. Barry Britton’s
Celtic Lines is a look at the life and career of a true Irish
surfer.
|

The Advocate
By Daniel Duane
Photos by Mark Gordon
“I first met Mark Massara in a padded room, and I thought
he was a pot-addled lunatic. He’s not. He’s arguably
the most significant environmental lawyer—maybe even the
most important environmental advocate—that surfing has ever
produced. But he can seem like a pot-addled lunatic because he’s
such a snarling pit bull of an environmentalist, fighting hook
and claw on nearly every California coastal conservation issue
of any significance, and even on a lot that are insignificant to
everybody except a few neighbors somewhere.”
|
Down
at the Sugarmill
Words and Photos by John Bilderback
A photojournalistic essay on the artisanal renaissance at the old
Waialua sugar mill, where burning cane has been replaced by catalyzing
resin, the whine of surfboard planers, the press of wood clamps
on shell inlay rhino chasers, and the bubbling pots of an herbal
soap maker. Come have a visit with cabinet builder Dan Moore who
also stands among the elite of the big wave fraternity, stop by
Reo Stevens’ and Mike Slattery’s shop and check-out
the rescue sleds they build for the tow-monkeys. A touch of history,
with a nod to the future, “the Sugarmill story” highlights
a vibrant community of craftsmen at the gateway to the North Shore.
|
Tenshi
no Hashigo—A Fishing Village in Japan
Words and Photos by Scott Bailey
“Once in the lineup, we watched solid 12-foot peaks stand
up and throw to the flat, dragging the swell over on itself in
three even sections. It was just perfect, if perfect gets that
big. The spit was awesome, swirling up to the sky like a tiny tornado,
leaving rainbows against the sun. On the wave of the day, we watched
a 15-foot pit explode down the point. You could have parked a bus
inside the thing as they say. Chris and I were both screaming our
lungs out and, although he was only a few feet from where I sat,
I could not hear him over the noise of the wave.”
|
Rodrigo
and the Art of Fun
By David Holmes
Rodrigo seemed sort of heavy when I first met him at Journal HQ.
You know . . . an older guy, burly arms, a lot of sun on his mug,
big, shaggy hair . . . a man of experience, perhaps not all of
it mentionable in polite company. Such was my first impression.
Soon enough, however, he and the head unagi, Monsieur Hulet, were
cutting up in Scott’s office, laughing about some San Diego
compadres they have in common, and I got a sense then of the mad
desert builder featured in David Holmes’ story—a study
in how to make much with little, and have a good time doing it.
|
Up
the Cape
Words and photos by Brian Nevins
Now, if you’re into lobster claw gloves and 5 mil booties,
then this one is for you. Way on up the East Coast, Brian Nevins
and a crew of intrepid barrel searchers (led by Hector, the ganja-toking
boat captain) sought a fortune in cold waves before winter froze
the joint (no pun intended). The boys found what they were looking
for, and Nevins—who isn’t happy above 23 degrees Fahrenheit—kept
his watch cap on and worked through the rolls to deliver a unique
view of a little-surfed region. Cold-water wax recommended.
|
Still
that Way
By Mickey Munoz
At some point the surfer realizes that he or she is involved in
something more significant than simple play. Perhaps it’s
the first time out in heavy water—far from shore the wave
rider senses the open ocean and taps in (however distantly) to
mankind’s seafaring tradition. Maybe it’s the fantasy
of hunting for surf by sail, or the realization that we spend far
more time looking at the water and paddling through it than actually
surfing . . . whatever the impetus, most surfers, sooner or later,
become intrigued by boats. It happened to Mickey Munoz in the worst
way and the result has been a life of hulls: some for surfing,
some for sailing. He’s had a grand time along the way and
shares some reminiscences.
|
Plus... beachglass
as nature’s gift, sailing on another’s dream cruise,
Jeff Divine on a strange day down in the Pacific, a make-you-quit-your-job
photo feature, and surfers mixing with Manhattos for a Surfrider
benefit.
Thank you for your continued support. Subscriptions are easily arranged.
Christian Beamish
Associate Editor TSJ
|
|
|